The Turkish Museum of Archeology was our first stop this morning. Once again, Kyle had to work so it was just Jeanine, Maya, and my sister Alissa who made the visit. We could have stayed for much longer but had to make our way to Riva where all preliminary games are being played. We hop the metro and take it to the other side of the Bosphorus (usually about 15 minutes depending on the snafu of the day) where we pick up a taxi van to complete the 45 minute remainder of the journey.

The game was a nail-biter. Haiti scored first with a lovely flick on goal. The US responded when Nico buried a penalty kick near the end of the first half. Haiti opened the second half with another fine goal. Once again, the US battled back and found a way to put the ball in the net to equalize with only seconds left in the match sending it into overtime. Overtime consists of two ten minute halves which is a lot after a full match. Haiti scored first putting pressure on the US to find another goal. We pushed our team forward to press the attack but left ourselves exposed to the quick counter attacks Haiti is known for. Once they had a two goal lead in the overtime period the game was out of reach and for every attempt we made at scoring, Haiti countered with another goal of their own. Although we tied in regulation time, Haiti scored 4 unanswered goals in the overtime period and thus eliminated any chance the US had for a place in the top eight standings. Although the team left the pitch feeling dejected, they played a hell of a match, left everything they had on the field, and showed a ton of grit down to the final seconds. Haiti was the stronger team today and deserved the win. The US played with great composure and intensity and can be very proud of their effort.

Today, all teams have been given a day off before the elimination rounds commence. I was up with the sun and down to the Galata Bridge where I launched my drone for some nice views of the Süleymaniye Mosque, which is one of the most impressive buildings we have seen so far. After breakfast, I joined Jeanine and Maya for a tour of the Spice Bazaar and the Grand Bazaar. Jeanine purchased several spices and Maya, a lamp. Kyle had to work and stayed behind at the hotel.

In the afternoon, we rendezvoused with the team for a 5-hour cruise on the Golden Horn and Bosphorus River. It was a most relaxing experience providing excellent views of the famous palaces, mosques, and exclusive homes which line the water’s edge. We anchored for about 30 minutes during which most members of the team enjoyed high diving from the boat’s top deck into the chilly water which separates Europe from Asia.

With a 5-0 win over Indonesia this afternoon, the USA advances to the knock-out round of the World Cup and will face Haiti on Wednesday. Nicolai scored 4 goals and had 1 assist. One of his goals was ruled an own goal but if you watch the video, there is little doubt that Nico’s shot was what created the goal. Haiti defeated the USA 6-0 in our last international friendly but we were playing without our full squad. During the World Cup Qualifier’s we defeated them by a one goal margin so it should be a very competitive match.

Nico emerged from the day’s match with an assortment of painful looking injuries. Whether they were inflicted intentionally or not, the result is a reminder of how rough this sport can be.

Earlier in the day Jeanine, Kyle, Maya, Alissa and I toured the Topkapi Palace Museum. I was blown away by the clock collection where we saw some incredible mechanisms that would be marvels by today’s standards. We learned that some of the clocks represented an entire lifetime of work for the maker. The weapons exhibit was also quite interesting and we had to send in a retrieval party to extricate Kyle. The Imperial Harem  contained more than 400 rooms and was home to the sultan’s mother; several hundred concubines and the four wives of the sultan; and the rest of his family, including children; and their servants. The men touring this exhibit seemed to agree that it was a pretty nice arrangement, an opinion not shared by the women.

Pictured above is the main greeting area within the Harem. The Sultan would have welcomed friends and guests here surrounded by his wives, children, and concubines. Formal state visits would have taken place in the Audience Chamber located in the Third Courtyard.

I set out for the Hagia Sophia this morning before dawn so that I could position myself for a good photograph at sunrise. Drones are not permitted within the tourist complex’s cordoned-off grounds but are allowed outside. Skies were overcast which made for a slightly muted shadow-free scene. I am really pleased with the result. I then toured the interior of the mosque which was equally beautiful.

By the time I returned to our hotel it was time to wake Kyle and Maya who arrived late last night. After breakfast, we left to watch the USA vs Argentina match. Nicolai scored a thunderous goal early in the game and immediately ran to the sidelines to embrace his siblings. Unfortunately, Argentina battled back with three unanswered goals. Torrential rain preceded the game and continued through the opening minutes leaving the field incredibly slick. Limited crutch traction put a real damper on the US athletic style of play and favored the Argentinian short pass game.

After the match, we returned to Istanbul and toured the Blue Mosque, the Mausoleum of Sultan Ahmet, and the Basilica Cisterns.

Even though many areas are currently under renovation, the Blue Mosque is still an amazingly beautiful example of Ottoman-era architecture. For the shot, I launched my drone from the rooftop terrace of the nearby Sirkeci Mansion where we are staying while in Istanbul.

The primary reason for our visit to Istanbul is to watch Nico compete for team USA in the Amputee World Cup. In our opening match, we faced England, second place finisher in the European championships and a highly regarded side. Cheered on by a small but highly vocal contingent of US supporters, the US managed to better the English squad with a 1-0 result. Nicolai had the assist for the winning goal and just missed what would have been a very pretty goal using a reverse flick (the equivalent of a bicycle kick in amputee soccer,

When the match ended the team’s exuberance was borderline hysterical. The win demonstrated that the US has graduated to a premier level of play. Although our roster is not deep, we have strength in every position. We play Argentina tomorrow and based on how they dismantled Indonesia, I would say we have a very tough match on our hands.

This morning we made the 5 1/2 hour drive from Ephesus to Istanbul where we returned our rental car outside the city and took a cab to our hotel. There, we connected with my sister, Alissa, who came to Turkey to support her nephew and enjoy a much-needed vacation. The opening ceremony for the Amputee Soccer World Cup was held at the Ülker Fenerbahçe Şükrü Saracoğlu Stadium where professional matches are played. The entertainment featured a procession of the 24 flags representing all the countries that are competing, a drumming ensemble, dancers, and an apparently famous singer. While very nice, it did not come close to the opening ceremony at the last World Cup in Mexico which was more of a cultural celebration of the country and its history. After the ceremony, the host nation had its opening match against France which had little chance against the top rated team especially when supported by thousands of fans. Security at the venue was like nothing you can imagine. Hundreds of police officers, heavily armed, many in riot gear. Jeanine had her power bank, lipstick and hand sanitizer confiscated. Alissa had to surrender her cell phone charger. I was detained because my camera was too professional. After a long delay and checking with other officials, I was finally permitted to enter with my gear. The people we have met in Turkey are as friendly and welcoming as anywhere we have ever travelled. Today’s experience at the stadium, however, was a reminder that this is still a country where the police and military rule with an iron fist.

We arrived in Selcuk this morning after a relatively short 2 1/2 drive from Pamukkale and spent the afternoon visiting the amazing ruins of Ephesus. The ancient port has a history dating back to the 11th century BC and was once considered the most important trading center in the Mediterranean region and the most prominent city in then Greece. Throughout history, Ephesus survived multiple attacks and changed hands many times between conquerors and ultimately declined after the toll of so much conflict and natural disasters. It was also a hotbed of early Christian evangelism and remains an important archaeological site and Christian pilgrimage destination. The Library of Celsus was definitely a highlight, with the Great Theatre and Terrace Houses a close second. The massive site remains one of the most complete archeological excavations of an entire city in the world.

After a brief respite in our quaint hotel, we explored the Basilica of St. John and the Ayasuluk Fortress before enjoying a lovely dinner to celebrate my 64th birthday.

We arrived in Pamukkale after a long drive from Konya made more interesting due to a flat tire we experienced along the way. Despite my many significant accomplishments over the course of our marriage, I don’t think Jeanine has ever admired me more than by watching how efficiently and effortlessly I dealt with changing tires on our rental car. It was scarcely a ten-minute blip on our journey and another half hour to find and have the tire repaired at a local auto shop. Fortunately, we arrived at our destination with plenty of time to visit Pamukkale and the Hierapolis ruins. Pamukkale, meaning “cotton castle” in Turkish is famous for a carbonate mineral left by the flowing of thermal waters. Although still remarkably beautiful, the site has been loved to death by the throngs of tourist who come to enjoy bathing in the pools. The series of pools pictured above were artificially created to replace a motorbike access road once built there. The terraced pools pictured below are natural and what I was most interested in photographing. Regrettably, the lack of recent rain left them dry. As a consolation, the golden hour evening light made the basins appear slightly blue in color which gives the impression of them being filled with water. As I was leaving the site to rendezvous with Jeanine who spent most of her time visiting the ruins, I saw a couple having their engagement photos shot. As is always the case in such situations, I studied what the photographer was doing to see if there was anything to learn. In this case, I concluded that he had no idea what he was doing and that all his shots taken into the setting sun without any fill flash on the couple would be terrible. I decided that such a lovely scene should not go to waste and took my own photo of the couple from a completely different angle.

This post is not completed and I will add more photos when time permits.

For now, enjoy this low-resolution version of a video I shot with my drone this morning. Imagine a smooth jazz soundtrack that I will add when I return home.

Reminders for Carl:

Yesterday: hot air ballon ride, underground city, Rose Valley Hike

Today: Love Valley Hike, Drive to Konya, Church

When we decided to vacation in Turkey, it immediately became apparent that we could not miss visiting the Cappadocia region which features geography and human endeavor like few other places on the planet. Pictured above is Uçhisar which means ‘Outer Citadel’ in Turkish and refers to the huge rock cone that is its central feature. Uçhisar is dominated by a 60-meter-high ‘castle’ which is crisscrossed by numerous underground passageways and rooms, which are now mostly blocked or impassable but which served as residential areas and, perhaps, cloisters in Byzantine times. It is believed that around 1,000 people once lived in the castle although it is no longer inhabited today. It was our last stop of the day and I used the drone for a nice golden light shot.

The village of Göreme, located within the Göreme National Park which was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1985, will be our base of operations while in Cappadocia and is known for the countless eroded rock formations, many of which were hollowed out in the Middle Ages to create houses, churches, and underground cities. Our hotel room is located within such a man-made cave.

Our day began with a visit to the Göreme Open Air Museum. First thought to be a Byzantine monastic settlement that housed some 20 monks, then a pilgrimage site from the 17th century, this cluster of rock-cut churches, chapels, and monasteries was a wonderful introduction to the history of the region. The various churches have been given names by the locals such as the Dark Church, the Apple Church, and the Snake Church based on some of the paintings inside. We hired a nimble 85-year old guide who gave us a complete education on the significance of the site. Photography was not permitted in the churches but was allowed in the kitchens and dining rooms, an examples of the latter is shown below one of the typical carved rock formations. The center section of the u-shaped cutout is a dining table and the areas outside the u-shape are for seating. The fresco on the wall is one of the first depictions of the Last Supper and unlike Michelangelo’s version painted hundreds of years later, Jesus is seated at the head of rather than in the middle of the table.

Last night we began our journey to Turkey where Jeanine and I will be celebrating our 30th wedding anniversary (delayed two years by Covid). We had originally planned on Greece but made the change when we learned that Nico and team USA would be competing for the Amputee Soccer World Cup in Istanbul.

Our journey was not without challenges. Our Lufthansa flight from Boston to Frankfurt was delayed causing us to miss our connection to Brussels. Fortunately, the airline rebooked us on the next flight (Brussels Airline) which arrived just in time for our connection to Istanbul on Turkish Air which was also delayed. After clearing customs we hired a taxi to take us from the international airport to the regional airport located an hour away and flew on Pegasus Airlines from there to Kayseri where we rented a car and drove to our hotel. We left our home yesterday at 2:30pm and arrived in our hotel this evening just shy of midnight. We fell asleep minutes after our heads hit the pillow.

The only photograph I had time for today was a picture of the TV on our Turkish Air flight asking me to select a language for the entertainment system. I took it because I thought the pictured location would be a great addition to our itinerary if time permits.

Yesterday, Open Table shared this tribute to Jeanine with their entire community. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

Yesterday, Nico asked me to photograph the Concord Carlisle High School Men’s JV Soccer Team which he is coaching again this season. The flash I normally use for such photos was not operating correctly so we had to time the photo for when the sun passed behind a cloud. This provides uniform lighting without causing the players to squint.

We have chosen to waterproof the outside wall of our foundation with a product called Tuff-n-Dri. It is applied with a spray gun and has a tar-like consistency. I spent three hours in the “pit” removing all of the concrete that spilled over the top and onto the footing. Doing so allowed the Tuff-n-Dri to create a continuous barrier over the top of the footing with no pockets for water to pool at the joint. While the family is in Turkey, drainage tiles will be installed around the outside and inside of the foundation walls. The inside of the foundation will be filled with 7 inches of gravel followed by 20 inches of Glavel which will be compacted to 16 inches. The garage footings and foundation walls should also be well underway.

I spent a good portion of the day working on the River House. Tomorrow, a waterproofing product called Tuff-n-Dri will be sprayed onto the outside of the foundation walls. While it is still wet, an insulating water drainage layer called Warm-n-Dri will be set into the tar-like coating. In preparation for this work, I needed to mark out the finish grade elevation around the entire perimeter of the house. This was easier said than done. I used a laser level on a tripod to project a finished grade line onto the foundation. I then climbed down a ladder into the excavated trenches and then up a ladder to mark the level on the wall. I did this for both ends of each of the eight walls and in cases with a diagonal profile, I snapped a chalk line and then created a stair-stepped pattern to simplify the installation process. All in all, I think I must have climbed up and down a 10 foot ladder a hundred times over the course of a few hours. Once the levels were all marked out, I had to drill a screw into the foundation at each location since the waterproof coating will cover all of the marks once applied. Another hundred trips up and down the ladder. Despite the strenuous exercise, I found the work very satisfying and had several frogs to keep me company.

My sister, Alissa, spotted this photo in the Schenectady Gazette newspaper this morning. It was taken 50 years ago in front of the George McGovern campaign headquarters. My father is second from the right and my mother is on the far left. In addition to their passion for ballroom dancing, they were avid folk dancers. I can remember joining them on many Friday night outings to dance with their local group. I still get goosebumps when I hear a slow Hasapiko.

We have decided to use swivel chairs in our new living room in lieu of a traditional sofa. This will allow family and guests to enjoy the views in all directions. While out with Jeanine this afternoon shopping for various new house items (flooring, plumbing fixtures, blinds, stonework) we stopped in to look at a few furniture stores. At one, we found what I consider to be the perfect swivel chair. Having sat in several dozen over the last few months, I can say with some certainty that this will be the chair we finally settle on (likely with a different covering).

Nico shared this photo of himself with his brother-from-a-different -mother, Jovan. The two have been training like mad men for the Amputee Soccer World Cup which begins in two weeks.

Inspired, perhaps, by Maya’s recent spice organization project or possibly my constant displeasure with the state of chaos in our Road House garage, I spent a part of the day organizing things. I long ago gave up on fancy purpose-designed garage organizers which invariably could not handle all of the items or which fell apart over time. Now I just affix a 2×4 to the wall (anchoring on studs) and screw in the appropriate hook for each tool. Much less expensive and infinitely more versatile and reconfigurable.

The concrete pour for the foundation walls was successfully completed last night. No other aspect of our new home project has made me more nervous. It is the only aspect of construction for which there is no way to correct a mistake. We needed five concrete mixer trucks to show up at 30-minute intervals. One breaks down or arrives late and we are screwed. If the pump truck gets clogged midway through the pour we are screwed. If the concrete vibrators malfunction we are screwed. If the ICFs blow out we are screwed. If the walls are not straight and plumb we are screwed. I think you get the idea. A lot of things can go wrong and once the concrete sets, you are stuck with it. I am happy to report that no such calamities occurred and the work appears to have gone perfectly to plan. See the video below.

Thirty-two huge bags of Glavel were delivered this morning. Glavel is a thermally insulating, load-bearing bulk aggregate made entirely from recycled glass. It has an R-value of 1.7 per compacted inch and compressive strength of 116psi. We will use 16 inches of it below the concrete floor in the basement.

Open Table held its annual meeting this evening al fresco at the El Huipil restaurant. It was also Jeanine’s last day as Executive Director of the organization. Three months ago she announced her decision to resign. After 9 years at the helm, she is ready for a new challenge, but not before a well-earned hiatus that will take her to Belgium after our two-week trip to Turkey starting next week. She received a standing ovation and was honored by several speakers for her leadership and passion. During her tenure, the organization transitioned from a volunteer-centered to a client-centered mission, secured its first permanent facilities, added a mobile pantry, introduced online ordering, raised $8M, and prepared tens of thousands of meals for clients in 21 communities. Maya and Nico were in attendance to share in the farewell and are seen below administering our traditional “graduation kiss”. Kyle would have been here as well if not for the fact that he is in Mexico this week.

Kyle sent these pictures from Cabo San Lucas, Mexico where he is spending the week with fellow employees. Team building in the age of remote working is on another level. I thought I was doing well to take my leadership team to Maine for whitewater rafting. How the goal posts have moved.

There can be no doubt that Maya is our daughter. She has become a talented chef taking after her mother and a relentless organizer taking after her father. She shared these photos of her latest nesting project and asserted as much.

I put the third and fourth coats of finish on the cork floor I installed in our entryway yesterday. I am very pleased with the result. This now completes the last remaining task on my ToDo list for the Road House.

Jeanine has been on Cape Cod visiting with a friend for the weekend. It is best to do these kinds of projects when she is not around since the smell of the finish as it cures is a bit intense. My soccer team won our match this morning by a margin of 5-1. I had a couple of assists and got a good workout before tweaking my calf in the final minutes.

Nico had an opportunity to play in an exhibition amputee soccer match in Times Square today. I had hoped to make a day trip to watch him play but decided the 8-hour round trip was more than I was up for. Fortunately, Nico was not without family in attendance. My cousins Anita and Jackie who live in the area were on hand for the match. Other than this photo, Nico has shared no details of the experience which I am champing at the bit to hear about. I am hoping someone captured video and will share it so that I may post it here.

Instead of a very long drive, I spent the better part of the day on my hands and knees laying a new cork floor in the entryway of our Road House. The effort was doubled because there is not a single right angle in the room. That combined with the need to trim around 5 doors made it quite an exercise in geometry. Fortunately, I can say the effort was worth it. I am very pleased with the result and owe a debt of gratitude to one of my soccer teammates who gave me the cork for free when his home renovation required less than he ordered. There is still enough left over to do the bathroom in Maya’s tiny house.

Growing up in Schenectady, NY, I was very much the introvert that I am today. I was a good student and good athlete but had few people I would consider real friends. Dan Neville was one of them. We attended Mont Pleasant High School together where we both were in the concert band, marching band, and cross country team. He was a gifted musician who could make a tenor sax sing like no one else. We shared many classes together and he was a brilliant student, the only classmate that I ever looked up to intellectually. He was also a kind and gentle soul.

By our senior year, we were spending less time together. I had dropped out of the band, was all consumed with wrestling, and spent many nights taking evening division engineering courses at Union College (nerd with a capital N). I was also dating my first real girlfriend and spent most of my remaining free time with her. After graduation, I lost track of Dan. Every couple of years since the internet became a thing, I have attempted to locate him with the hopes of reconnecting. This evening, I finally found him. Sadly, I am 13 years too late.

Dan died in 2009 of cancer and it was his obituary that led me to him. He lived in Chandler, Arizona, was a teacher, and is survived by a wife and son. The memories and condolences shared on that website paint a picture of the man I knew he would become. It is odd that I should feel so grief-stricken after so much time has passed. We only knew each other for a few years and yet I have carried the memory of that friendship with me for almost half a century. Dan, I have missed you but will continue to keep you in my heart.

Today, I had the occasion to search YouTube for content that would help with fundraising for the American Amputee Soccer Association. I came across a video I had never seen before of an international friendly with Costa Rica. It is possibly the only international competition I have not attended since Nico started playing amputee soccer. I was thrilled to have a chance to see what I missed. By my count, Nico scores 6 goals in two matches.

I also found a video of two of the best teams in the world, Turkey and England playing at the recent European Finals. I only wish US fans had the same passion for soccer. In any event, it is a great preview of what is in store at the World Cup which starts at the end of this month.

Renowned architect Steve Baczek posts a lot of great content on social media sharing his expertise in building science. When I saw the post linked below, I could not help but smile. He provides a very entertaining tour of our new homes future foundation walls.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CiJTRC2Drrm/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Don’t forget to enable audio for the full impact.

The rain that started yesterday continued through the evening and much of today thwarting our plans to pour the concrete basement walls. Unfortunately, we will have to wait an entire week before the necessary people and resources can be rescheduled. This is very disappointing but I made the best of an otherwise unscheduled day to complete preliminary plans for the electrical wiring of the house. Above is the drawing for the first floor.

Jeanine shared this photo taken by her friend Aliza while out on an extended bike ride this past weekend. Unfortunately, the beautiful weather has given way to all-day rain. While much needed to break the drought we have been experiencing, it does not bode well for the concrete work we have scheduled for tomorrow.

It has been several weeks since we managed to assemble the whole crew for a meal. Nicolai has been all over the country practicing with his team for the World Cup (just 3 weeks away now), Maya was in quarantine recovering from her second bout of Covid and Kyle was in Las Vegas for a work function. As a bonus, we were joined by Sarinnagh, who is like another member of the family. We were all in Somerville to see Maya’s new apartment, located a few steps away from Union Square. She is sharing the third-floor flat with three friends (two from high school) and is now a short walk away from work. After moving to and from three different states for internships, in and out of her dorm at Olin every year, back and forth to Amsterdam for a term abroad, and in with us while waiting for her lease to start, Maya is really looking forward to settling down for a while. We are thrilled that she choose to remain in Boston.

We learned that Nicolai will be playing an exhibition soccer match in the center of Times Square next Saturday. Other obligations permitting, I may make the drive down with Maya. Meanwhile, Kyle is headed to Cabo, Mexico for another work function next week.