Did I mention that the boat is very small. Gabe’s hair is sticking out sideways not because of the wind but because she is returning to her seat after being bounced off the top of the cabin. Lee is not reaching for a bag but rather prefers to absorb the impact of each wave while hunched over rather than sitting down. Zoom into the photo for a peak at Kyle’s face. I mentioned that the boat was small right? And that we are in the open ocean for a 35-mile, 2 hour crossing in high winds with big swells. For the first five minutes, this was more exciting than any thrill ride I have ever been on. After ten minutes, I start planning water survival strategies for when the boat breaks in two from impact with waves twice its size. You are getting the picture, right. Tiny boat, huge ocean waves, fear of death and spinal injury.

Today we drive to Dangriga where we will transfer to a small boat for a 35-mile open ocean crossing to Long Caye located on Glover’s Reef.

Back to the Maya Mountain Lodge for our last night. Each evening we are treated to a 4-course meal featuring exquisite local cuisine explaining why, despite 6-hours of strenuous exercise each day, I managed to gain weight. While in the jungle, Kyle and I also sampled live termites a great source of protein with a carrot like taste. Had they been the sole source of food, I am sure I would have lost a lot of weight.

A moment of rest. Our group included two other father-child combinations. Gabriella (Gabé) age 14 and her dad David (not pictured) and Lowell (pictured) and his three sons, Gabe, Jesse, and Lee. Rounding out our group was a single mom, Grae and a couple from Alaska, Steve and Marie.

The view from the top is spectacular, as was the speed of the wind and my fear of being blown over the edge of this extremely steep pyramid. Unlike the US where we are protected from everything but paper cuts, Belize offers endless opportunities to take one false step and be dead as a result. Needless to say we exercised great caution on this particular day. Pictured behind us is the entire excavated city which includes several courtyards and lesser structures.

After lunch we visit the Mayan runis of Xunantunich and climb the Castillo which remains one of the tallest man made structures in the country today.

By noon we reach Clarissa Falls and put out for an exquisite lunch. Pictured here is a traditional dug out canoe that is still used for river crossings.

Before entering the river, we receive safety training. It becomes clear that my camera will not be making the journey with us and as a result I have no photos of the white water journey.

Why do you need helmets for kayaking? Answer: When you fall out in the middle of rapids and discover through touch and feel what creates white water. After negotiating a rapid, we would turn around, paddle upstream and river surf. This involves paddling like crazy to get into the eddy created by the whitewater in front of you. When you “climb the wave”, you can stop paddling and you will remain stationary surfing the river. Getting in and out of this position is rather tricky, however, and gave me a dozen opportunities to practice water rentry into my capsized kayak.

Today we head out for Class 2+ white water kayaking on the Mopan River in the morning followed by exploration of the Xunantunich Mayan ruins in the afternoon. Rather than the soft bottom kayaks used yesterday, today we switch to hard shell sit-on-top kayaks. They are much less stable but stand up much better to the encounters with big rocks which will be the order of the day.

During the final leg of our voyage, we stopped in an underground cavern to investigate a number of incredible mineral formations.

Kyle poses in his kayak at the exit of the final cave.

One last pose before we head back underground.

Lunch is prepared and served on top of an inverted kayak. Small fish, close relatives to the pirhana, are everywhere and swarm at our legs. Apparently they only nibble at dead skin which does not hurt. After lunch, we throw some meat into the water and they devour it. I decide to spend the rest of the time on shore or in the kayak.

At lunchtime we stop at a very interesting sink hole and Kyle does some exploration.

I stop often to swing my kayak around for a shot of Kyle’s raft. Several water fights errupt on this journey and it is always advisable to know if any vessel is sneaking up on you.

Occassional sink hole openings allow us to rest for a few minutes and soak up some sunshine.

Minding your head is essential if you wish to remain conscious to enjoy the bats swooping through the caves.

One last safety review before we enter the cave.

The next several miles of paddling will be underground with the exception of a 0.3 mile portage which will be one of the most strenuous challenges of the entire week.

Kyle looks a little nervous as we put ashore to to don headlamps and inspect the very low entrance to the first cave.

As we approach the first cave, Kyle switches into one of the rafts and I switch into the kayak.

Winding through the jungle on the Caves Branch River.

Kyle opts for one of the kayaks.

The group prepares to set out with two 5-person rafts and 3 one-man kayaks. We have about one hour of paddling before we reach the cave entrance.

Day two and we gear up for underground rafting and kayaking.

Relaxing on the porch after an exhausting day of spelunking. Our guide Jes was an excellent musician and kind enough to entertain us.

After several hours underground, our group is ready to make the journey back to sunlight. Note that we are all wearing socks. In sections of the cave which contain artifacts, shoes are not permitted which forces you to be pretty damn careful where you put your feet.

This skeleton is of the only female and is located at the deepest part of the cave.

The Mayans made human offerings to the underworld Gods and the cave contains the remains of 6 infants under the age of 3, one 7 year old and seven adults. 

At one point the cave opens up into a huge chamber and you can envision how the Mayan must have gathered here for their ceremonies as did we for a group portrait.

The cave itself was unbelievably beautiful. According to our guide, effective one week from today, photography will no longer be permitted in the cave. I felt exceptionally fortunate to be among the last visitors to have an opportunity to capture these scenes.