Doubtful Sound got its name from Captain James Cook during his voyage in 1770. Initially, he named it “Doubtful Harbour” because he was uncertain whether it was navigable under sail due to the prevailing westerly winds, which made it doubtful that a ship could sail back out once entered. Later, the name was changed to “Doubtful Sound” by whalers and sealers in the 19th century. The Māori name for the fiord is “Patea,” meaning “place of silence,” which reflects its serene and tranquil environment. Today, we experienced it from the water. At 7 AM we boarded a water taxi to cross Lake Manapouri arriving at West Arm where we boarded a bus to take us over Wilmot Pass. We then boarded a cruise which took us up the sound and out into the Tasman Sea before returning 3 hours later.

During the voyage, we encountered waterfalls, short-tailed albatross, seals, and a man in a wet suit poised precariously on the side of a cliff.

This guy was a total mystery, even to the crew. (1) How did he get there? There is no access by car, no place to land a helicopter, no sign of a boat, and it would take days to reach on foot. (2) How did he get onto the face of that rock? (3) What was he there for? Presumably, to dive into the water. Then what? There is no conceivable way of climbing back on shore.

When we reached the Tasman Sea, the smooth ride we had enjoyed turned into a very choppy affair. It became doubtful I would keep my lunch down but my stomach calmed when we returned to the sound.