As is our tradition, we start Christmas Day by removing the stockings from their hanging spots on the fireplace mantle and taking a seat on the couch. Each person in turn extracts a single item and tries to guess who it is from. This usually lasts for an hour or two and then we sit down to breakfast featuring from scratch popovers. Every year Jeanine worries that they will not come out just right and every year they do. Fully nourished, we return to the living room and begin the serious business of the present opening. We use a Secret Santa system (each adult is assigned one person to gift) which in theory should cut down on the number of presents to be opened. Even so, we manage to stretch things out for a couple of hours after which most of us are ready for a nap. This year Nicolai took the lead on adding a late afternoon charcuterie course to the dining menu which had the net effect of delaying dinner until 8 pm and even rounder bellies.