Today, I ventured outside the walls of Old Town to discover many other sides of Tallinn. My first stop was the Balti Jaama Turg (Renovated Baltic Station Market), a unique universal market. There are almost 300 different merchants and shops at the market. Trading takes place on three different levels and in the kiosks and stands outside the buildings. I found the fruit, fish, and flower stands to be the most photogenic.
After lunch at the market, I hopped a tram to the Lennusadam, a maritime museum located next to the harbor.
Housed in a uniquely shaped building that was previously used as a sea plane hanger cable of accommodating three large planes at once.
The museum building can be seen in the background of the photo below. The building in the foreground was under construction and was very cool in its own right.
The centerpiece of the Lennusadam is the EML Lembit, a historic Kalev-class mine-laying submarine built in 1936. It is one of the most significant surviving pieces of pre-World War II maritime technology in Northern Europe. I spent over an hour inside the sub until the staff asked me if I wanted to take it out for a dive. OK, that didn’t actually happen.
The museum includes several vessels outside the building. The one pictured below is an early steam-powered icebreaker.
Fotografiska Tallinn is the cultural anchor of the trendy Telliskivi Creative City district. Housed in a beautifully converted, historic red-brick factory building known as the “Red Building”, this location perfectly mirrors the edgy, artistic atmosphere of the Kalamaja neighborhood. The venue brings together world-class visual art, a legendary late-night social vibe, and award-winning green gastronomy across its multi-story layout. I toured the photography exhibition and left in awe of what an artist can do with a camera. Afterwards, I walked around the Telliskivi area and admired the street art.
Early this morning, I made the 2-hour ferry journey from Helsinki across the Gulf of Finland to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia. After settling into my hotel, I set out on foot to explore Old Town, an exceptionally well-preserved medieval district and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Featuring cobblestone streets, Gothic spires, and a 2-kilometer defensive wall with roughly 20 guard towers, it dates back to the 13th century and offers a real-life fairytale atmosphere.
The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is the city’s largest and grandest Eastern Orthodox cupola church. Located on Toompea Hill, this stunning Russian Revival structure features iconic onion domes and houses the city’s most powerful ensemble of 11 church bells. Pictured above is my favorite of many photos taken through a hard-to-reach keyhole in the adjacent defensive wall.
Even though I had mapped out several places I wanted to visit, I found myself simply wandering the streets and finding something beautiful to photograph around every turn.
Old Town is so compact that it makes aerial photography a little challenging, especially given the no-fly zone restrictions. Even so, I managed to capture a few images that give an overall sense of the area.
I had dinner at the Raekoja plats (English: Town Hall Square). It is a venue for numerous small festivals and concerts, and home to several bars and restaurants. I watched the World Cup on a big-screen TV setup outdoors while enjoying a fine Italian dinner.
As forecasted, it rained for most of the day. Photographically speaking, this is not always a bad thing. The overcast skies create a moody atmosphere and provide uniform and soft light. Pictured above on the left is the Helsinki Central Library Oodi. It is without a doubt the most amazing library I have ever visited, both from an architectural point of view as well as the offerings inside. A striking spiral staircase is wrapped in an art installation called Omistuskirjoitus (Dedication) by artist Otto Karvonen. The installation features words and dedications gathered from the public, emphasizing that the library belongs to everyone regardless of age, origin, or wealth.
Oodi Library’s makerspace, officially known as the Urban Workshop (Kaupunkiverstas), is a communal DIY space located on the second floor. It provides free access to advanced tools and machinery for creators, hobbyists, and entrepreneurs. The list of resources includes: 3D printers, a laser cutter, a large-format printer and scanner, a vinyl cutter, sewing machines, embroidery machines, button makers, and a heat press. There is also an audio-visual area with dedicated recording studios (with instruments and mixing equipment), photo studios (with cameras, green screens, and lighting), and editing bays. I could live in this place and never get bored!
The third floor looks more like a traditional library if you look past the robotic carts that return books to their respective areas, the kids’ play area, and the cafe with outdoor seating overlooking the neighborhood.
As seen in the first photo, the top two floors of the library are predominantly clad in glass, which provides natural light and a sense of expansiveness. When I first saw the window below, I assumed that I was looking through raindrops on the glass, a reasonable guess as it was raining outside. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that these were painted dots on both the inside and the outside, presumably to diffuse the sunlight or perhaps just for fun.
I could have spent the entire day at the library, but I continued my walking tour of the city. Pictured below are two photos of Lasipalatsi Square, a public space located in the heart of Helsinki. The square is famously known for its striking, subterranean Amos Rex art museum. Its surface features large, undulating concrete domes with circular skylights that visitors can climb.
The Kamppi Chapel, popularly known as the “Chapel of Silence,” is an award-winning architectural landmark situated in the bustling Narinkka Square. Designed by K2S Architects and completed in 2012, its minimalist, windowless structure serves as a serene sanctuary from the surrounding city chaos. The building represents a pinnacle of Finnish wood construction, featuring curved exterior walls of warm spruce treated with a unique nanotechnology wax. Inside, the gentle, oval-shaped hall is lined with smooth alder planks that create a soft, soundproofed atmosphere. Rather than hosting traditional Sunday church services, the chapel is dedicated exclusively to quiet reflection, personal solitude, and occasional acoustic concerts.
The Entrepreneurs’ Monument (also known as Yrittäjäveistos or Leverty) is a prominent public artwork located in the square adjacent to the Kamppi Chapel, by Swedish sculptor Eva Löfdahl. It features a transparent, block-like form constructed from a complex aluminum meshwork frame that houses over 1,100 individual components meant to symbolize the interconnectedness, transparency, and solid foundation of Finnish entrepreneurial endeavors.
The Temppeliaukio Church, also known as the Church of the Rock, is a stunning Lutheran church located in Helsinki’s Töölö neighborhood. Completed in 1969, it was carved directly into solid granite bedrock by architect brothers Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen. The interior is bathed in natural light through 180 vertical window panes supporting a massive copper dome. Due to its exposed rock walls, the church boasts exceptional acoustics that make it a premier venue for concerts.
St. John’s Church is a twin-spired Lutheran house of worship designed by Swedish architect Adolf Melander and completed in 1891; it stands as Finland’s largest stone church by seating capacity. The building is a prime example of Neo-Gothic architecture, featuring red brickwork, decorative rose windows, and high pointed arches. Inside, the massive wooden pews can accommodate up to 2,600 people, and its exceptional acoustics make it a prominent venue for large-scale concerts.
My final stop for the day was the Old Market Hall (Vanha kauppahalli), located along the waterfront. It is Finland’s oldest covered market shopping venue. Designed by architect Gustaf Nyström and opened in 1889, the red-brick and white-plastered building was originally constructed to improve local food hygiene and bring order to chaotic open-air market trading. Inside, two long aisles are lined with charming wooden stalls where vendors sell traditional Finnish delicacies, including fresh salmon, Nordic cheeses, pastries, and reindeer meat. The historic culinary hub also features cozy cafés and bistros, making it a highly popular gathering spot for both locals and international tourists.
I arrived in Helsinki at 1 pm and was settled in my hotel by mid-afternoon. As tired as I was, I decided to do a walking tour because of the rain forecast for tomorrow. Pictured above is the Uspenski Cathedral with SkyWheel Helsinki in the foreground. Below is the Helsinki Cathedral with the Senate Square. I used Lightroom to remove all but a few of the tourists who were milling about when I took the photo.
Another view of the cathedral taken from a distance with the Presidential Palace in the foreground. Helsinki has strictly enforced no-fly zones in most of the places where you would want to use a drone for photography. The locals were quick to inform me of this, and I had to fly outside the boundaries and use a zoom function to get my shots.
Suomenlinna is an 18th-century sea fortress built across six islands near Helsinki. I hopped on a ferry and was there in 15 minutes. Originally named Sveaborg by the Swedish, it was constructed to defend the realm against Russian expansionism. The historic site features well-preserved stone walls, secret tunnels, historic artillery, and distinct architectural styles from its Swedish, Russian, and Finnish eras. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991, it stands as a unique monument to military architecture. Today, the fortress serves as both a popular tourist destination and a vibrant, living residential neighborhood for hundreds of local residents.
Most of the streets are cobblestone, the large and hard-to-walk-on variety. I watched for quite some time as this craftsman was installing a new section, using the board to his right to “level” the stones as he pounded them into place.
Sukellusvene Vesikko is a restored 1930s WWII-era submarine located at Suomenlinna and operated as an exhibit of the Military Museum of Finland. Launched in Turku in 1933 under the codename CV-707, it was secretly commissioned by the German military via a Dutch front company to bypass Treaty of Versailles restrictions, later serving as the prototype for Germany’s Type II U-boats.
The islands were covered in lush vegetation, and these yellow flowers dominated the landscape.
I returned to the city by 7 pm, with almost four more hours of sunlight left, but was forced by hunger and exhaustion to find food, take a much-needed shower, and collapse in bed.
This yellow-bellied marmot was photographed by Nicolai while on vacation with Teddy in Colorado. This guy looks very well fed and quite happy in his surroundings.
I spent my morning packing for my flight to Finland later in the day, planning my itinerary while in Europe, and securing lodging reservations for the next 9 days.
The Creeping Thyme we planted last year is in full bloom and spreading wonderfully. The ones in the back have a red flower that bloomed earlier in the month.
My soccer team won its final game of the regular season in fine form with a 10-0 shutout. I had an inch-perfect cross that was headed in for a goal, but failed to capitalize on a breakaway that had me one-on-one with the keeper.
I completed packing for a recently planned trip to Finland, Estonia, and Poland. Nico will be competing with the US National Amputee Soccer Team in friendlies against Poland and Ukraine, which will be held in Warsaw. I will do a little sightseeing before and after the competitions.
Mini golf and ice cream were the order of business today as we enjoyed our last day with Kris and Rob. Kimbal Farm allowed us to enjoy both. We played with an Earle-developed set of rules that eschewed traditional scoring in favor of a hole-by-hole system designed to increase the speed of play. Kris won 3 holes, and Jeanine and I tied with two holes each. Points are earned only if you sink your putt with fewer strokes than anyone else. If two players take the same number of strokes, then no one earns a point. Jeanine seemed to enjoy depriving me of a point, something she did three times, more than she did earning one.
Our schedule did not permit a round of bumper boating, but we did have time for what we believe is the area’s best ice cream. After three days in the sun, we were quite happy to sit back and enjoy three World Cup matches during the balance of the day.
Established in 1831, Mount Auburn Cemetery spans across Cambridge and Watertown, just a few miles outside of Boston. It is celebrated as America’s first large-scale designed garden cemetery, serving as an active burial site, an accredited arboretum, and an outdoor museum. It was our destination this morning, where Jeanine, Kris, and Rob walked the grounds while I gave my knees a break, opting for photography instead.
The Wayside Inn in Sudbury is one of the oldest continuously operating inns in the United States, having first opened as Howe’s Tavern in 1716. It gained national fame as the inspiration for Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s “Tales of a Wayside Inn”. In the 1920s, Henry Ford purchased and extensively restored the property, adding historic structures like a functioning grist mill and a chapel. Today, it operates as a historic site offering overnight lodging and traditional New England dining. We enjoyed a leisurely dinner there before returning home to watch the US defeat Paraguay in their World Cup opening match. We then drove into Cambridge to watch Maya perform with her dance troupe at Dante’s Salsa & Bachata venue.
Nico shared this photo from the Colorado Rockies of his exploits with Teddy. Apparently, his face was attacked by a caterpillar while hiking.
Our morning started with a blind taste-off between regular pancakes and gluten-free pancakes. I prepared each type and served them to Jeanine and Kris. Both were able to identify which was which, as was I. All of this was because I refused to accept the assertion that gluten-free pancakes tasted just as good as gluten-containing pancakes.
Salem was our destination for the morning, where we took a 2-hour historical walking tour and learned all about the history of the city and the infamous witch trials and executions. We traveled to Marblehead in the afternoon, where we stopped at the Marblehead Light, Old Burial Hill Cemetery, and Fort Sewall.
Kris and Rob Earle arrived this afternoon and will be visiting with us through the weekend. Kris and Jeanine have been best friends since they grew up together in Lebanon, IN. We decided on a walk in the Minuteman National Park, starting at the Visitor’s Center and ending at Merriam Corner. Pictured above is the Captain William House, and below, the Hartwell Tavern. I turned around at the Bloody Angle so I could return to the car and meet them when they completed the ~4-mile walk. Including my workout this morning on the elliptical, I racked up more than 8 miles and was happy to spend the rest of the evening relaxing after Jeanine served up a lovely gnocchi dish and a perfect rendition of the lemon ice of my childhood.
Last week, my new Sony A7R6 arrived, and I have spent countless hours over the last few days configuring it to my shooting style. Virtually every button and dial can be assigned to any function, allowing you to set the camera up exactly for your own needs and preferences. My original plan was to sell my A7R4, pictured above, and use my Sony A1, pictured below, as my second body. I have now decided to sell my A1 as well and purchase a second A7R6. The reason for this is that the A1 has a different button layout and less programming flexibility. Once I build my muscle memory for the new camera, I don’t want to (and am increasingly unable to) remember a different set of function assignments for my second camera. Also, the A7R6 battery is not compatible with the older models, complicating charging and battery management, especially when traveling. You might wonder why I keep a second camera body. The main reason is so I can have two different lenses mounted and at the ready. I normally keep my “backup” camera mounted to a 600mm telephoto with all the settings optimized for “birds in flight.” When I see something interesting outside, I can grab this setup and be shooting within a few seconds. It is how I captured this Bald Eagle. My main body is normally mounted to a 20-70mm lens, which is what I shoot 90% of my photos with. I also use two bodies when I travel to places that are cold, windy, dusty, and/or near bodies of salt water. One will have a telephoto zoom and the other a wide-angle zoom, allowing me to shoot wildlife or landscapes without swapping lenses. A single grain of salt can ruin a camera sensor, so the last thing you want to be doing is changing lenses in the field. Later this year, we are traveling to Antarctica, where the tour company specifically warns about changing lenses outdoors.
As of today, both my A7R4 and A1 are up for sale and I have an order in for a second A7R6.
Last week, our resident squirrels discovered that Jeanine’s recipe for hummingbird food makes for a mighty tasty afternoon aperitif. After some trial and error, she fashioned a couple of aluminum pie tins into an effective squirrel barrier. Unfortunately, with the slightest wind, it also worked as an effective hummingbird deterrent. Today, I installed a more conventional solution, but it remains to be seen if this “tippy” dome will do the job.
Friday’s online edition of the New York Times featured a front-page article about the US National Amputee Soccer Team including a nice section about Nico.
In soccer news not worthy of the New York Times, my team remains undefeated this season after a hard-fought 3-1 win this morning. I scored a fourth goal but was ruled offside. Unbelievably, after the game, the ref admitted to one of my teammates that I was not offside, but he did not want the score to become too lopsided as tempers were beginning to flare. It was a pretty left-footer past one defender and the goalie.
Jeanine and I set out on the final leg of our road trip after enjoying breakfast with Alissa. Our first stop was the Emma Willard School, a prestigious, independent university-preparatory day and boarding school for girls (grades 9–12 and postgraduate), founded in 1814. As the first women’s higher education institution in the United States, it remains a premier trailblazer in girls’ education. The campass has a certain Hogwarts feel to it.
Williams College’s 450-acre campus in Williamstown, Massachusetts, features over 125 buildings seamlessly blending historic and modern architecture. Pictured below, from left to right, are Hopkins Hall, Thompson Memorial Chapel and Griffen Hall
Natural Bridge State Park is home to the only natural white marble arch in North America. According to geologists, the park’s namesake natural bridge, made of 550-million-year-old marble bedrock, was carved into its iconic arch by the forces of glacial meltwater over 13,000 years ago. Today, the bridge spans the Hudson Brook as it twists and tumbles through a steep 60-foot gorge.
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