Despite the lack of electricity, two composting toilets for the entire island, and gravity fed, solar “warmed” (“heated “would be an overstatement), brackish water showers, the island is remarkably well stocked with sea toys.

The island is sprinkled with palapas which create shade from the intense afternoon sun.

Despite expectations to the contrary we arrive at Long Caye alive. The 50-yard wide atoll will be our home for the next three days. Land never looked so good to me. The word paradise does not do this place of beauty justice.

Did I mention that the boat is very small. Gabe’s hair is sticking out sideways not because of the wind but because she is returning to her seat after being bounced off the top of the cabin. Lee is not reaching for a bag but rather prefers to absorb the impact of each wave while hunched over rather than sitting down. Zoom into the photo for a peak at Kyle’s face. I mentioned that the boat was small right? And that we are in the open ocean for a 35-mile, 2 hour crossing in high winds with big swells. For the first five minutes, this was more exciting than any thrill ride I have ever been on. After ten minutes, I start planning water survival strategies for when the boat breaks in two from impact with waves twice its size. You are getting the picture, right. Tiny boat, huge ocean waves, fear of death and spinal injury.

Today we drive to Dangriga where we will transfer to a small boat for a 35-mile open ocean crossing to Long Caye located on Glover’s Reef.

Back to the Maya Mountain Lodge for our last night. Each evening we are treated to a 4-course meal featuring exquisite local cuisine explaining why, despite 6-hours of strenuous exercise each day, I managed to gain weight. While in the jungle, Kyle and I also sampled live termites a great source of protein with a carrot like taste. Had they been the sole source of food, I am sure I would have lost a lot of weight.

A moment of rest. Our group included two other father-child combinations. Gabriella (Gabé) age 14 and her dad David (not pictured) and Lowell (pictured) and his three sons, Gabe, Jesse, and Lee. Rounding out our group was a single mom, Grae and a couple from Alaska, Steve and Marie.

The view from the top is spectacular, as was the speed of the wind and my fear of being blown over the edge of this extremely steep pyramid. Unlike the US where we are protected from everything but paper cuts, Belize offers endless opportunities to take one false step and be dead as a result. Needless to say we exercised great caution on this particular day. Pictured behind us is the entire excavated city which includes several courtyards and lesser structures.

After lunch we visit the Mayan runis of Xunantunich and climb the Castillo which remains one of the tallest man made structures in the country today.

By noon we reach Clarissa Falls and put out for an exquisite lunch. Pictured here is a traditional dug out canoe that is still used for river crossings.

Before entering the river, we receive safety training. It becomes clear that my camera will not be making the journey with us and as a result I have no photos of the white water journey.

Why do you need helmets for kayaking? Answer: When you fall out in the middle of rapids and discover through touch and feel what creates white water. After negotiating a rapid, we would turn around, paddle upstream and river surf. This involves paddling like crazy to get into the eddy created by the whitewater in front of you. When you “climb the wave”, you can stop paddling and you will remain stationary surfing the river. Getting in and out of this position is rather tricky, however, and gave me a dozen opportunities to practice water rentry into my capsized kayak.

Today we head out for Class 2+ white water kayaking on the Mopan River in the morning followed by exploration of the Xunantunich Mayan ruins in the afternoon. Rather than the soft bottom kayaks used yesterday, today we switch to hard shell sit-on-top kayaks. They are much less stable but stand up much better to the encounters with big rocks which will be the order of the day.

During the final leg of our voyage, we stopped in an underground cavern to investigate a number of incredible mineral formations.

Kyle poses in his kayak at the exit of the final cave.