
As we commence the climb, we encounter several village children along the way. These are some of my favorite photos of the trip.

Our guide, Charles, takes this photo commemorating the start of our climb. It becomes immediately obvious that he is a talented photographer in addition to a skilled climber and knowledgeable naturalist and historian. We are very fortunate that he will be leading us. Although the signs indicates this is the Nalemuru Route, it is still commonly referred to as the Rongai route which was the original village from which it started before the trail head was moved several years ago.

When we arrive at the gate, our porters are busy gathering the supplies we will need to sustain our 7 day trek. Our team includes a main guide, two assistant guides, a cook, and eleven porters. The three guides will remain with us at all times. The cook and porters will setup, tear-down, and transport our camp each day. The porters carry all of the food, water, tents, and equipment from site to site. Each day after we have started treking, they will tear down the camp, pack it up and move it to the next site. They typically leave each day an hour after we start, pass us on the trail, and have camp set up by the time we arrive. I carry my own pack and camera equipment while one of the guides will carry Nico’s pack in an effort to protect his hands which will suffer the most wear and tear on the journey.

Along the ride we pass through several small villages and get an up close look at the difficult living conditions faced by most Tanzanians. The driving, once again, provided enough of an adrenaline rush to qualify for a Six Flags feature attraction. Thankfully, we were able to locate operable seat belts.

This morning we are finally ready to begin our ascent of Kilimanjaro. Because we have elected to use the sparsely traveled Rongai route, we begin with a two and a half hour 4×4 ride around the base of the mountain to the north side gate. Nicolai’s decision to avoid the very popular “Coca Cola” and “Whiskey” routes afforded us a true wilderness experience and intimate contact with nature. At least three quarters of the week we will spend on the mountain is spent without encountering a single other climbing party.

During our return to the lodge we make use of public transit, a minivan the size of our Honda which is carrying no less than 33 passengers, many hanging out the doors. After John learns of Nico’s fundraising for wheelchairs he asks his uncle, Roman Nyaki, who is in need of one to meet with us. We will make every effort to ensure that Roman is one of the recipients. To those who donated to the cause, rest assured that the need here is enormous. Virtually everyone we met knew of someone that was in need of a wheelchair.

Here from a distance of perhaps 20 miles we are able to take in both the Kibo (left) and Mawenzi peaks (right). When I tell Nico we will be traversing the saddle between these two ancient volcanoes in a single day he looks at me as if I am out of my mind. As I stood there beside him, I questioned as much myself.

Our patience at the top of the hill is rewarded as a break in the clouds briefly reveals our destination. I was unable to capture a single photograph which does justice to the scale of this mountain. At this point, Nicolai and I looked at each other and without words questioned what the hell we were doing.

Next, we descend into a deep gorge to view the Kilasiya Falls. The steep and treacherous descent is made on wet clay which is about as slippery a surface as you can imagine for negotiating with a pair of crutches. Amazingly, Nico is able to climb down and out without killing himself. If not for the beauty of the falls, I almost regretted this detour because of the risk it posed to ending our climb before it had even started.