Our Galapagos tour has regrettably come to an end. We make a brief visit to a pair of massive sink holes on Santa Cruz en route to the airport on Baltra.  Maya has written very detailed postcards for Caleb and she finished her last one on the plane as we flew back to the mainland.

When we arrived in Guayaquil we picked up a rental car and made a beeline for Cuenca hoping to arrive before nightfall.  My Garmin GPS navigator with a new South American map loaded did not function properly leaving us in something of a bind.  Fortunately Maya was able to navigate us out of the city and on a path to our destination. The three and a half hour drive was lengthened considerably by rain and very dense fog.  A challenging but event free drive, we were happy to arrive at our hotel and to sleep in beds that did not move.

This morning we made the easy climb to the rim of the Sierra Negra Volcano. When we arrived the caldera was entirely obscured by clouds. We waited for some time and our patience was rewarded. The clouds cleared long enough to reveal the full extent of the crater and to take a group photo. Included are the other members of our tour and our guide.

Before the climb, while still near the shore, we had an opportunity to view several sharks the way I like to most.  Them in the water and me on land. 

By now marine iguanas have become quite commonplace.  Even so, coming across a couple of hundred juveniles was quite a treat.

Our afternoon excursion took us to the Arnaldo Tupiza Breeding Center and Wetlands where 5 different varieties of giant tortoises are bred. The effort is an attempt to prevent the loss of these species which have been at risk for some time.  Our tortoise encounters in the wild were certainly more exciting, but it was very interesting to see the turtles at every stage of development and in the process of being created.

The breeding center includes a wetland area traversed by a raised walkway. Here we observed flamingos and moorhens for the first time.

Urbina Bay , located on the island of Isabela, is a good place to find giant tortoises and land iguanas although both can be difficult to spot. We were fortunate to encounter one very large tortoise, several younger ones and a pair of iguanas.

The entire area was subject to a massive tectonic uplift and coral reefs that were once below the ocean now sit on land.

While transiting to Elizabeth Bay we crossed paths with a pod of some 20 dolphins. They decided to do a little bow riding and for ten minutes they held the ships passengers hostage with their gleeful antics.

The mangroves of Elizabeth Bay are frequented by a number of Galapagos penguins. The little fellow below was curious about our boat and my crude attempts at a penguin call. It swan to within a couple of feet of our boat to investigate.

Maya was given an opportunity to pilot the Panga as we returned to the main ship. She was smiling from ear to ear the entire time.  The crew commended her smooth driving and accurate steering (both a bit harder than you would likely imagine).

We started our day with a bit of water cave exploration on the  island of Isabela.  Excursions included visits to Vincente Roca Point and Espinoza Point. 

In my opinion, sea lion pups are one of the cutest animals to be found in the Galapagos. It is hard to overcome the temptation to grab one and bring it home. I have to settle for capturing adorable images.

Our last opportunity for snorkeling provided my first opportunity to swim with sea turtles and a sea lion.  The latter moved through the water with power and grace. I tried to keep up with it but it was out of sight in a matter of seconds. The turtles were a little more my speed.

Marine iguanas can be found in huge numbers, often amassed together in huge colonies. They frequently expel salt laden water through their noses and one is wise to stand clear. Counterintuitively, they face into the sun to cool down. This exposes less of their dark bodies to the sun’s rays.

These iguanas are not carnivorous and prone to conserve energy during the day.  Apparently this encourages other reptiles to view them as they would a lounge chair.

Maya also finds sea lion pups to be irresistibly cute. Watching the interplay between the ever hungry pup and her exhausted mother reminded me a lot of the demands placed on Jeanine during our early parenting years and even now. Still the provider of sustenance to all of us she remains the backbone of our family.

The flightless cormorant, with its tiny wings, is endemic to the Galapagos and can only be found on two islands, Isabela and Fernandina.

Cacti are one of the primary forms of vegetation which help to transform the lava fields into fertile soil over time. I find them to be quite beautiful and it was hard to pick a favorite photograph.

 The skeletal remains of a beached whale.

Another day in paradise comes to a close with a subtle but dramatic sunset.

Today we visited the Island of Santiago with excursions to James Bay and Buccaneer Cove. It is remarkable how different the islands are, one from the other. Our beach landing was greeted by the usual assortment of crabs and I was finally able to capture an image of a ghost crab which, as its name suggests, is rather illusive.

For all the 10 legged creatures on the beach there are an equal variety of 8-legged ones a bit further inland.

A short walk from our landing area and the shoreline changes dramatically, leaving no doubt about the island’s volcanic history.

Lava lizards and marine iguana share the rocky beaches with the crabs.

Pelicans are here in great numbers. They fly low over the water when in transit. Come time to hunt, they gain altitude and dive into the ocean. They target areas with many fish and catch them as they swim back to the surface.

The shore is also teaming with birdlife including the mocking bird and finch pictured below.

Practice has improved my underwater photography and I feel I have reached the limits of what my camera can produce.

All excursions to land are by way of our ships two Panga boats. Landings are either wet or dry dictating the type of footwear needed for disembarking. Other times, as was the case this afternoon after our visit to Buccaneer Cove, we use the Pangas to tour the coast line offering great views of the wildlife and their habitat.

Each time we return to the mother ship food is generally the first thing on everyone’s mind. The fare has been healthy, varied and quite yummy. Even though it seems like we are eating all the time, I am confident we are burning off at least as many calories as we are consuming.

Prince Phillip’s Steps on the island of Genovesa is home to a wonderful array of birds, none of which fear humans.

Photographing such fearless subjects was a breeze. Not so, catching them in flight.

We encountered a sea lion and her pup shortly after landing at Darwin Bay during our afternoon excursion. Park rules dictate that visitors maintain a 2m separation from the wildlife.  If not for that regulation, Maya would have snuggled her way into this family.

The sunset this evening was sublime and I found it a great background for the silhouette of a sailing ship that was anchored nearby.

This morning we have arrived at Santiago’s Sullivan Bay. When the rising sun disappeared behind a low cloud ceiling, it lit up the horizon in a way I have not seen before. Our first excursion had us exploring a relatively young lava flow where we learned a great deal about the vulcanism that created the Galapagos Islands.

Even amidst the seemingly desolate rock, animal and plant life can be found everywhere. Combined with the forces of erosion, these elements will eventually turn this island into a fertile oasis similar to others in the chain.

As we were preparing to return to the boat, our guide spotted several Galapagos Penguins hunting for breakfast.  They were quite far away but I did manage to capture a pair in mid-flight. After a nice snack, it was time for snorkeling, a first for Maya. Despite being a little nervous, she took to it like an otter (little surprise). Together we enjoyed an endless parade of beautiful marine life.

I used an inexpensive underwater camera to capture what I could. Flash photography is prohibited throughout the park which made it rather difficult to do justice to the vibrant colors we observed. I wore my right contact lens only so I could spot with that eye and focus the camera with my left.  With all that in mind, I feel fortunate to have gotten the shots that I did.

After lunch and a siesta we visited Bartolomé where we hiked to the highest point of the island for an incredible vista.

Maya and I woke up at 4:15AM to catch an early flight to Guayaquil en route to Baltra Island where our Galapagos adventure is set to begin. During the flight it was hard to decide which view was more impressive, the one from above the clouds or from below.

When we arrived in the Galapagos we were met by our guide and introduced to the other 14 guests that we will be sharing a catamaran with for the next week; a family of 8, a family of 3 plus boyfriend and one couple.

We were underway in no time and Maya was quick to assume the Titanic pose as we set off for Las Bachas Beach on Santa Cruz.

Our first wildlife encounter (not counting seabirds) was with the Sally Lightfoot Crab.  There must have been ten thousand of them covering the rocks on the beach. The second photo is of two crabs in the process of making more crabs.

Next our guide spotted several Marine Iguanas. It was an exciting way to start our voyage.

For Caleb:  Maya has coerced the other guests on the ship to relinquish their complimentary postcards so that she may write you daily. Below she is in the process of writing the first. 

Our flight to Ecuador took longer than expected when a weather delay out of Boston caused us to miss our connection in Panama. The weather in Quito, by contrast, was exceptional despite a forecast for rain all day. Maya and I did a walking tour of Quito’s Old Town covering 6.5 miles before stopping for a late lunch. We spent the rest of the day relaxing at our posh hotel, quite likely our last taste of luxury for the balance of the trip. The Basílica del Voto Nacional, pictured below was one of our favorite destinations.  My fear of heights prevented me from joining Maya who bravely climbed what amounts to open scaffolding to reach the spires of the church for an unsurpassed view of the city. I was content to photograph her from the ground.

The inside of the church was impressive by any standard but it did not hold a candle to the interior of La Compania whose entire interior is virtually covered in gold leaf, seven tons of it by some estimates. Regrettably, no photographs were permitted there.

Making good use of our guide book we took in the most famous sights of the city including, Plaza Grande, Plaza Santo Domingo, Plaza San Francisco, Plaza del Teatro, several churches in addition to those already mentioned, Museo de la Ciudad, and the magnificent Colonial era buildings in the La Ronda district.

Maya’s feet at the end of the day bear witness to the distance we covered. Note to Jeanine: your daughter, of her own volition, washed these before turning in for the night.

Maya and I began our 3-week adventure in Ecuador today to celebrate her graduation from high school. We travel first to Quito, where my mother was born, by way of Panama City.  I am half Ecuadorian and Maya one-quarter so this journey will be something of an exploration of our family heritage. I will try to update the blog during our travels when access to wi-fi permits.

Senator Jamie Eldridge presented Jeanine with a Senate citation to Open Table for their “Excellence in Collaboration” nomination by the Massachusetts Nonprofit Network.  Joining her yesterday at the State House for the ceremony was her sister Lauren who returned to Indianapolis later in the day.

Jeanine spotted a large common snapping turtle in our backyard this morning. Wisely, she kept Nala on her rope.  These prehistoric creatures, as their name suggests, can inflict a very nasty bite and should be given a wide berth. This fellow looked to be somewhere in the 30-40 pound range.

Jeanine, her sister Lauren, the boys plus Karuna and I ventured downtown to Concord Center where we enjoyed the inaugural Middlesex Jazz Festival.  A light rain forced an early end to the music but we were there long enough to conclude that we will be very happy to see the festival return next year. The adults enjoyed ice cream as an appetizer to a Chinese dinner at Chang An with the kids who decided that a trip to Kimball Farm after supper would be a better way to enjoy a frozen treat.

Earlier in the day my soccer team won a critical match (2-1) moving us into a tie for first place in division 1 and clinching a berth in the post season playoffs.  After the game, I announced that I would be moving up to the over-56 league for the fall season and that I had just played my last match with the team since I would be traveling with Maya in Ecuador for our final three games of the season.  I was moved by the kind words and well wishes from my teammates.  I took solace in the fact that all will be joining me on the over-56 squad in due time.

The high school years are officially behind us now.  Maya graduated from Concord Carlisle High School this morning with high honors and an engineering certificate. Jeanine and I are ready for the next chapter in our lives but, I for one, was more than a little sad at the same time. A full set of photos from the day can be found here.

I can’t wait to see how our little powerhouse will change the world!