With new confidence in the tires on my campervan, I returned to my planned itinerary, albeit delayed by half a day. Pictured above is the north end of Kalsoy Island (population ~80) which can be reached by a 15-minute ferry ride and a 10 Km drive passing through four very dark, one-lane tunnels (pictured below). I read somewhere that this location is featured in the latest Bond movie and I can’t wait to see it. I arrived at the campground in Mikladalur at about 7:30 pm quite exhausted from earlier hiking. My first impulse was to have dinner and go right to bed. The presence of clear skies over the mountain peaks prompted me to make my planned hike to the Kallur lighthouse (see if you can locate it in the photo) right away instead of the following morning, Not only did I get photos unobscured by clouds, I had the trail to myself, save for a couple of dozen sheep. Between hiking and photography, it took me about two hours to go up and come down, leaving another 30 minutes before sundown at 10:30 pm.

A large percentage of the roads and tunnels in the Faroe Islands are one lane only with strategically placed turnouts where one car can pull aside to let oncoming traffic pass. The system generally works but I can tell you that the first time you encounter head-on traffic in a narrow tunnel, it will get your heart racing. Things get really dicey when two or three cars are traveling in a group or with large trucks. Driving here is not for the faint of heart. In addition to the already mentioned challenges, the roads are frequently on the sides of mountains or edges of cliffs, often shrouded in dense fog/clouds, and must be shared with sheep that are said to outnumber humans here by two to one.