The Moeraki Boulders are large, spherical concretions formed from mudstone, a type of sedimentary rock, approximately 60 million years ago during the Paleocene era. These boulders, which can reach up to 3 meters in diameter and 7 tons in weight, were created through a process of sedimentation and mineralization on the seafloor, and were later exposed by coastal erosion along Koekohe Beach. Optimal time for photography is during mid-tide which required an early departure from Dunedin. We drove through rain for much of the way but it stopped as we arrived in Moeraki only to start again after I captured my final images. This good fortune did not persist, however, as rain and low clouds greeted us as when we arrived at Aoraki / Mount Cook later in the day.
Nugget Point Lighthouse, located near the mouth of the Clutha River is a historic lighthouse built from locally quarried stone between 1869 and 1870. It is situated high above a collection of massive rocks jutting up from the sea. We stopped here for the views and to breakup the 6 hour drive from Milford Sound to Dunedin.
Along the drive, we encounter some pretty impressive sheep farms. Click on the image below and just try to count the sheep.
We arrived in Dunedin by late afternoon and stopped to explore the Dunedin Railway Station, a prominent architectural landmark of the city, known for its Flemish Renaissance style designed by George Troup, who earned the nickname “Gingerbread George” for his work on the building. Opened in 1906, it was once New Zealand’s busiest station but now primarily serves as a tourist hub, hosting and housing attractions such as the New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame and the Otago Art Society.
We then made a brief visit to Baldwin Street, deemed to be the steepest residential street in the world. We did not dare drive to the top and I only walked a short distance to take this photo on the shallowest part of the drive.
Arguably, the pinnacle of our vacation was an overnight cruise in Milford Sound. Milford Sound is actually a fjord renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, featuring sheer rock faces, powerful waterfalls like Lady Bowen and Stirling Falls, and a unique ecosystem supported by its high rainfall, which creates a freshwater layer on the surface of the fjord, allowing for diverse marine life to thrive. Our home for the next 18 hours is the Discovery Jewel, a state-of-the-art cruiser that sleeps 18 guests and 4 crew.
During our tour of the fjord, we encountered a pod of bottlenose dolphins. At one point, they were swimming underneath the bow of the ship. As I looked over the railing, I saw one of the dolphins swimming on its side, looking up directly at me with one eye. There is no doubt in my mind whatsoever that I was making eye contact with a sentient being.
We also encountered several seals as we traveled close to the large boulders where they like to sun themselves.
I joined a handful of other passengers who elected to stay on the foredeck as the captain pushed the nose of the boat underneath Stirling Falls. My top stayed dry due to my waterproof shell, but my pants got soaked through and through. Fortunately, they lived up to their billing as being fast drying. In the evening, we enjoyed a three-course meal prepared by the ships chef followed by a video presentation narrated by the captain. His grandfather had assisted oceanographer Jacques Cousteau with some of his research and his father had invested in an underwater ROV (remotely operated vehicle) to survey the bottom of the fjord. He was responsible for the discovery of several new species of sealife. The video included underwater ROV footage and aerial drone photography of the sound.
The drive to Milford Sound was as dramatic as the cruise that followed. It is sprinkled with stunning views, including this one of Christie Falls.
Doubtful Sound got its name from Captain James Cook during his voyage in 1770. Initially, he named it “Doubtful Harbour” because he was uncertain whether it was navigable under sail due to the prevailing westerly winds, which made it doubtful that a ship could sail back out once entered. Later, the name was changed to “Doubtful Sound” by whalers and sealers in the 19th century. The Māori name for the fiord is “Patea,” meaning “place of silence,” which reflects its serene and tranquil environment. Today, we experienced it from the water. At 7 AM we boarded a water taxi to cross Lake Manapouri arriving at West Arm where we boarded a bus to take us over Wilmot Pass. We then boarded a cruise which took us up the sound and out into the Tasman Sea before returning 3 hours later.
During the voyage, we encountered waterfalls, short-tailed albatross, seals, and a man in a wet suit poised precariously on the side of a cliff.
This guy was a total mystery, even to the crew. (1) How did he get there? There is no access by car, no place to land a helicopter, no sign of a boat, and it would take days to reach on foot. (2) How did he get onto the face of that rock? (3) What was he there for? Presumably, to dive into the water. Then what? There is no conceivable way of climbing back on shore.
When we reached the Tasman Sea, the smooth ride we had enjoyed turned into a very choppy affair. It became doubtful I would keep my lunch down but my stomach calmed when we returned to the sound.
Te Anau is a picturesque town in Fiordland National Park, known for its stunning natural beauty and as a gateway to Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound. It will be our hub of operations for the next two nights. After driving here from Queenstown we hiked a section of the Kepler Track along the shore of Lake Te Anau. We had hoped to see more birdlife but the only flying object I captured is the butterfly below.
Our next stop was the Punanga Manu Bird Sanctuary, where our birding options improved. Pictured below is one of 10 Antipodes Island Parakeets remaining on mainland New Zealand. There are thought to be less than 2000 in the world. Ducks on the other hand, are everywhere.
Next, we traveled to the Rainbow Reach Bridge to sample a different section of the Kepler Track.
Finally, based on a map view of the Waiau River, I decided that a section called the Baloon Loop would make for a great aerial photo. We located a gravel road that took us to the edge of the river within drone range, and I was able to get the shot. A higher angle would have been even better, but I wanted to keep my altitude low because of the proximity to a nearby airport.
If you are looking for a hub to book adventure activities or where you can find a wide range of really fine food and shopping options, Queenstown is the place. We gravitated to the Queenstown Gardens, which offered a nice respite from the commercialism of the city.
In the afternoon, we drove out to the Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge, where a bungee jumping company operates. Click on the image below and see if you can find Waldo. I was tempted to take a leap but the last time I bungee jumped, I had a headache for several days. This operation recovered the jumper with a boat, which was much faster than hoisting back to the top (the method used when I jumped, leaving me inverted for more than 10 minutes.)
After watching the adrenaline junkies for a while, we drove to Lake Hayes and did the 5-mile hike around it bringing our total distance covered for the day to 8.5 miles.
Glenorchy is a picturesque settlement at the northern end of Lake Wakatipu in New Zealand’s Otago region, known for its stunning natural beauty and outdoor activities. The area has been featured in several films, including The Lord of the Rings and The Chronicles of Narnia. We arrived shortly before noon with intermittent rain and high winds to hike the Glenorchy Scenic Lagoon Track. Low clouds diminished the views of Mont Bonpland but did not detract form the plentiful birdlife in the area.
The Arrowtown Chinese Settlement, established during the Otago Gold Rush of the 1860s, was a small community of Chinese miners and merchants living on the fringes of Arrowtown. By 1885, it had grown to include about 10 huts, a large social hall, at least two stores, and extensive gardens, serving as a hub for Chinese immigrants who faced discrimination and lived separately from the European settlers. We stopped here to tour the settlement during the morning. You could argue that the tiny huts built into the sides of a mountain were the inspiration for Hobbit Holes.
The photo below was taken from the roadside on our drive to Glenorchy. Even with the sunlight muted by clouds, I loved the color and composition and am happy I stopped for it (not always easy when traffic is moving along at 100km per hour.)
We arrived in Wanaka last night, where, for the first time, we are staying in a tiny house. Of our accommodations thus far, it is our favorite. It is nestled on a hillside overlooking Lake Wanaka with a small pond below the porch. I got up before sunrise to capture the famous Wanaka Tree. The tree started its life over 80 years ago as a willow branch used as a fence post in Lake Wanaka to keep livestock from wandering. Over time, it took root and grew into the solitary tree seen today. In 2014, a photograph of the tree by Dennis Radermacher won the New Zealand Geographic photo of the year award. The image, taken on a misty day, captured the tree’s unique appearance and set it on the path to fame as #ThatWanakaTree spread rapidly on social media.
Mou Waho is an “island in a lake, on an island in a lake, on an island in the ocean.” It contains Arethusa Pool, a small lake near its peak that itself has a tiny island, creating a rare recursive landform. It was our destination this morning via speedboat (the 25 minute ride each way was an experience in and of itself). The island is predator-free and serves as a sanctuary for native wildlife, including the endangered Buff Weka, pictured below.
In the afternoon, we visited a Lavender Farm, which was as picturesque as it was fragrant. The working farm was also home to a couple of alpaca who were kind enough to pose for me.
Today, we drove from Franz Josef to Wanaka via the Haast Pass, exploring almost every trailhead we encountered. The day started with drizzle and overcast skies and ended with bright sunshine. Our original plan was to hike to Matheson Lake for views of the Fox Glacier, but low clouds put us off that agenda, and we are thankful it did.
Haast Beach
On the path to Roaring Billy Falls.
Thunder Creek Falls
Rock cairns across from Fantail Falls (must click for higher resolution to fully appreciate)
Jeanine and I opted for different activities today. She was interested in a little downtime, and I was looking forward to some up time. I signed on to a heli-hike tour of the Franz Josef Glacier, the fourth largest of over 2000 in New Zealand. A helicopter transported us to the glacier where a guide led us on a 2-hour hike through crevasses, tunnels and over the surface of the glacier. The weather started out perfect but gradually clouds began to develop and we had to finish the last quarter of our hike rather quickly so as to avoid spending the night on the glacier. The helicopters use visual navigation and cannot land if the single landing spot becomes obscured by clouds. When this happens, the group spends the night on the glacier in provided tents and sleeping bags until the weather has cleared. Suffice it to say, I was please that our group made it out ahead of the clouds.
We continued our journey southward, stopping at the Hokitika Gorge for a relatively short hike. The glacial fed river is a brilliant turquoise, fringed by stark white limestone cliffs and lush green rainforest. My photographs do not do justice to the glorious color palette. As is typical in New Zealand, the trails are beautifully maintained and often include swinging bridges that are as fun to traverse as they are to photograph.
With so much candy for the eye in front of you, it is easy to miss what is underfoot even though it is just as exciting. Entoloma hochstetteri, also known as the blue pinkgill, is a species of mushroom that is endemic to New Zealand. It is the only mushroom to ever be featured on a bank note and it has yet to be determined if it is poisonous or not.
Today was ostensibly a travel day during which we stopped several times en route to Punakaiki. Our first stop was at Split Apple Rock whose name says it all. We continued to the Nelson Lakes National Park where we paused for a 1-hour hike at Lake Rotoiti and lunch. Lunch did not include the 4-foot-long freshwater eels which abound here.
Finally, we made our way to the west coast and the Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki. Click on the image below to fully understand where the name comes from.
This evening we are staying in a cabin by the ocean. It will not be remembered as one of our better accommodations, but the view from the beach at sunset was pretty hard to beat.
Jeanine and I spent the day on a kayak tour of the Tonga Island Marine Reserve. The highlight of the day was our encounter with several seal pups playing around in a grouping of rocks, protecting them from potential predators. They were adorable and reminded me of how our kids would play rough and tumble on the couch in our living room.
Jeanine displays a recovered sea urchin.
Here we are at the Tonga Arches. Unfortunately, our guide who took the picture was some distance away and did not know how to zoom the lens.
Dr. Suess Trees, as described by our guide.
Between yesterday’s hike and today’s paddling, I am ready for a less physically exhausting day. Tomorrow we will begin heading south and most of the day will be spent driving.
Today, Jeanine and I hiked an 8-mile section of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, one of New Zealand’s great tracks. We boarded a water taxi that deposited us at Bark Bay, and then we made the 4-hour hike to Anchorage Bay, where we returned to our home base at Kaiteriteri again by water taxi. Most of the trek is in tropical vegetation leaving you unaware of the shear cliff on the ocean side of the path. Occasional, there is a gap in the trees affording views of the ridiculously beautiful beaches.
Bridges are encountered frequently as you traverse the many streams that feed the bays. The suspension bridges were my favorite, reminding me of the hiking I did in the Himalaya.
Bark Bay
Sandfly Bay
Jeanine soothed her feet in Anchorage Bay while we waited for our water taxi.
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