It rained nearly the entire day, so we spent it primarily indoors at the Australian Museum. I was particularly captivated by the world-class collection of minerals and spent hours in this section alone. I also enjoyed the dinosaur exhibit and the taxidermy collection of all the birds of Australia. Later, we dined at a very nice Japanese restaurant before starting a search for gelato. Fortunately, the rain had subsided by then.

When we found the perfect gelateria, we learned that the once-monthly fireworks over Darling Harbor would happen in an hour, so we decided to wait for the show. We found an ideally situated bench seat and people-watched as waves of spectators showed up for the event. The fireworks were well worth the wait and felt like a serendipitous gift.

Darling Harbor is aptly named, not for the former New South Wales Governor who attached his name to it, but for its delightful charm and eccentric mix of the old and new. It is a short walk from our apartment and was our destination for the day.

In front of the Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbor is a fountain designed by Robert Woodward. The fountain is saucer-shaped, with ten spiraling paths for water and two spirals serving as walking paths leading to the center. The flow of water creates mesmerizing crisscross wave patterns through its unique hydraulic design. It is one of the most beautiful water features I have ever seen.

We arrived at the Australian National Maritime Museum as it opened and spent hours there. Of particular interest was the Ocean Photographer of the Year exhibit, which was exceptional and tours of Captain Cook’s HMB Endeavour Replica and the HMAS Onslow submarine.

HMAS Onslow was an Oberon-class submarine that served in the Royal Australian Navy (RAN) from 1969 to 1999.  She is 295 ft long and 26 feet wide, capable of 12 knots surfaced and 17 knots submerged, powered by two supercharged V-16 diesel engines, each driving a 1.28 mega-watt generator connected to a 3,000 horsepower electric propeller motor. As much as I romanticize submarines, our on-board tour made it clear to me this is not a place I would ever want to work.

Today was a travel day from Christchurch to Sydney, Australia, where we will be spending the next week. I was very happy to return our rental car after logging 3300 miles, the equivalent of driving from Bangor, Maine to San Diego, California. Although I adapted fairly well to driving on the other side of the road, it required much more concentration. I am happy to report that I did not hit anything and only received one speeding ticket. In Sydney, we are staying in an 11th-story downtown apartment situated a short walk from the transit system which we will rely on for our stay.. Getting here from the airport was a breeze. The view from our window is a stark contrast to the natural scenery we have enjoyed for the last month but quite interesting just the same. Tomorrow, we will begin our exploration of the city and environs.

Christchurch experienced a series of devastating earthquakes from September 2010, with the most destructive occurring on February 22 2011, resulting in 185 fatalities and widespread damage to buildings and infrastructure. The city has since been undergoing extensive rebuilding and recovery efforts, the evidence of which can be seen everywhere.

We took a city tour by tram, giving us an excellent overview of the area. We then dismounted and explored on foot, arriving at the 52-acre Botanical Gardens where we again enjoyed a guided tour of the grounds before returning on foot for more investigation. During the day we walked a total of 8.3 miles and visited several museums, art galleries, the public library (a highlight), and churches. All the exercise justified a generous sampling of the food which included lamb shwarma, chicken kababos, anzac cookies, cheese scones, Thai salad, eggs over sourdough toast, a donut and chocolate chip cookie.

Jeanine is pictured below at the Kate Sheppard National Memorial, which commemorates the country’s women’s suffrage movement. Driven by her efforts, New Zealand was the first country in the world to grant women the right to vote.

Last night, we dined at a rooftop bar and restaurant, affording us a birdseye view of the city. The view inside was equally impressive. This evening, we took in the movie Tinā, a poignant story set in Christchurch following the earthquakes.

The Church of the Good Shepherd is a small, picturesque stone church located on the shores of Lake Tekapo. It is renowned for its stunning natural setting and is one of the most photographed buildings in New Zealand. Built in 1935 as a memorial to the early settlers of the Mackenzie Basin, it was constructed using local stones gathered within a five-mile radius and blends seamlessly into its surroundings.

Pictured below is a recently constructed footbridge across the Tekapo River. Completed in 2015, the bridge spans 410 feet and stands 410 feet above the water. We have seen many bridges in New Zealand, and I would have to say this is probably my favorite.

In the news on the home front, the product that Maya has been working on at Formlabs was just announced. See the video below. Kyle has taken up Salsa and Bachata dancing, and Nicolai will be playing amputee soccer at Gillette Stadium on April 19th.

Aoraki / Mount Cook is New Zealand’s tallest mountain at 12,218 feet. When we arrived at the Mount Cook Village last night, clouds obscured all of the mountains. This morning, I chose to hike the Hooker Valley Track while Jeanine opted to relax with a book at the Hermitage Hotel since the skies were heavily overcast and threatening rain. I really enjoyed the 6.8 mile hike out to Hooker Lake even though it remained cloudy all morning. Fortunately, I did get a 5 minute window where the clouds opened up in front of Mount Cook. The same thing happened again when we were driving out of the park.

The Moeraki Boulders are large, spherical concretions formed from mudstone, a type of sedimentary rock, approximately 60 million years ago during the Paleocene era. These boulders, which can reach up to 3 meters in diameter and 7 tons in weight, were created through a process of sedimentation and mineralization on the seafloor, and were later exposed by coastal erosion along Koekohe Beach. Optimal time for photography is during mid-tide which required an early departure from Dunedin. We drove through rain for much of the way but it stopped as we arrived in Moeraki only to start again after I captured my final images. This good fortune did not persist, however, as rain and low clouds greeted us as when we arrived at Aoraki / Mount Cook later in the day.

Nugget Point Lighthouse, located near the mouth of the Clutha River is a historic lighthouse built from locally quarried stone between 1869 and 1870. It is situated high above a collection of massive rocks jutting up from the sea. We stopped here for the views and to breakup the 6 hour drive from Milford Sound to Dunedin.

Along the drive, we encounter some pretty impressive sheep farms. Click on the image below and just try to count the sheep.

We arrived in Dunedin by late afternoon and stopped to explore the Dunedin Railway Station, a prominent architectural landmark of the city, known for its Flemish Renaissance style designed by George Troup, who earned the nickname “Gingerbread George” for his work on the building. Opened in 1906, it was once New Zealand’s busiest station but now primarily serves as a tourist hub, hosting and housing attractions such as the New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame and the Otago Art Society.

We then made a brief visit to Baldwin Street, deemed to be the steepest residential street in the world. We did not dare drive to the top and I only walked a short distance to take this photo on the shallowest part of the drive.

Arguably, the pinnacle of our vacation was an overnight cruise in Milford Sound. Milford Sound is actually a fjord renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, featuring sheer rock faces, powerful waterfalls like Lady Bowen and Stirling Falls, and a unique ecosystem supported by its high rainfall, which creates a freshwater layer on the surface of the fjord, allowing for diverse marine life to thrive. Our home for the next 18 hours is the Discovery Jewel, a state-of-the-art cruiser that sleeps 18 guests and 4 crew.

During our tour of the fjord, we encountered a pod of bottlenose dolphins. At one point, they were swimming underneath the bow of the ship. As I looked over the railing, I saw one of the dolphins swimming on its side, looking up directly at me with one eye. There is no doubt in my mind whatsoever that I was making eye contact with a sentient being.

We also encountered several seals as we traveled close to the large boulders where they like to sun themselves.

I joined a handful of other passengers who elected to stay on the foredeck as the captain pushed the nose of the boat underneath Stirling Falls. My top stayed dry due to my waterproof shell, but my pants got soaked through and through. Fortunately, they lived up to their billing as being fast drying. In the evening, we enjoyed a three-course meal prepared by the ships chef followed by a video presentation narrated by the captain. His grandfather had assisted oceanographer Jacques Cousteau with some of his research and his father had invested in an underwater ROV (remotely operated vehicle) to survey the bottom of the fjord. He was responsible for the discovery of several new species of sealife. The video included underwater ROV footage and aerial drone photography of the sound.

The drive to Milford Sound was as dramatic as the cruise that followed. It is sprinkled with stunning views, including this one of Christie Falls.

Doubtful Sound got its name from Captain James Cook during his voyage in 1770. Initially, he named it “Doubtful Harbour” because he was uncertain whether it was navigable under sail due to the prevailing westerly winds, which made it doubtful that a ship could sail back out once entered. Later, the name was changed to “Doubtful Sound” by whalers and sealers in the 19th century. The Māori name for the fiord is “Patea,” meaning “place of silence,” which reflects its serene and tranquil environment. Today, we experienced it from the water. At 7 AM we boarded a water taxi to cross Lake Manapouri arriving at West Arm where we boarded a bus to take us over Wilmot Pass. We then boarded a cruise which took us up the sound and out into the Tasman Sea before returning 3 hours later.

During the voyage, we encountered waterfalls, short-tailed albatross, seals, and a man in a wet suit poised precariously on the side of a cliff.

This guy was a total mystery, even to the crew. (1) How did he get there? There is no access by car, no place to land a helicopter, no sign of a boat, and it would take days to reach on foot. (2) How did he get onto the face of that rock? (3) What was he there for? Presumably, to dive into the water. Then what? There is no conceivable way of climbing back on shore.

When we reached the Tasman Sea, the smooth ride we had enjoyed turned into a very choppy affair. It became doubtful I would keep my lunch down but my stomach calmed when we returned to the sound.

Te Anau is a picturesque town in Fiordland National Park, known for its stunning natural beauty and as a gateway to Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound. It will be our hub of operations for the next two nights. After driving here from Queenstown we hiked a section of the Kepler Track along the shore of Lake Te Anau. We had hoped to see more birdlife but the only flying object I captured is the butterfly below.

Our next stop was the Punanga Manu Bird Sanctuary, where our birding options improved. Pictured below is one of 10 Antipodes Island Parakeets remaining on mainland New Zealand. There are thought to be less than 2000 in the world. Ducks on the other hand, are everywhere.

Next, we traveled to the Rainbow Reach Bridge to sample a different section of the Kepler Track.

Finally, based on a map view of the Waiau River, I decided that a section called the Baloon Loop would make for a great aerial photo. We located a gravel road that took us to the edge of the river within drone range, and I was able to get the shot. A higher angle would have been even better, but I wanted to keep my altitude low because of the proximity to a nearby airport.

If you are looking for a hub to book adventure activities or where you can find a wide range of really fine food and shopping options, Queenstown is the place. We gravitated to the Queenstown Gardens, which offered a nice respite from the commercialism of the city.

In the afternoon, we drove out to the Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge, where a bungee jumping company operates. Click on the image below and see if you can find Waldo. I was tempted to take a leap but the last time I bungee jumped, I had a headache for several days. This operation recovered the jumper with a boat, which was much faster than hoisting back to the top (the method used when I jumped, leaving me inverted for more than 10 minutes.)

After watching the adrenaline junkies for a while, we drove to Lake Hayes and did the 5-mile hike around it bringing our total distance covered for the day to 8.5 miles.

Glenorchy is a picturesque settlement at the northern end of Lake Wakatipu in New Zealand’s Otago region, known for its stunning natural beauty and outdoor activities. The area has been featured in several films, including The Lord of the Rings and The Chronicles of Narnia. We arrived shortly before noon with intermittent rain and high winds to hike the Glenorchy Scenic Lagoon Track. Low clouds diminished the views of Mont Bonpland but did not detract form the plentiful birdlife in the area.

The Arrowtown Chinese Settlement, established during the Otago Gold Rush of the 1860s, was a small community of Chinese miners and merchants living on the fringes of Arrowtown. By 1885, it had grown to include about 10 huts, a large social hall, at least two stores, and extensive gardens, serving as a hub for Chinese immigrants who faced discrimination and lived separately from the European settlers. We stopped here to tour the settlement during the morning. You could argue that the tiny huts built into the sides of a mountain were the inspiration for Hobbit Holes.

The photo below was taken from the roadside on our drive to Glenorchy. Even with the sunlight muted by clouds, I loved the color and composition and am happy I stopped for it (not always easy when traffic is moving along at 100km per hour.)

We arrived in Wanaka last night, where, for the first time, we are staying in a tiny house. Of our accommodations thus far, it is our favorite. It is nestled on a hillside overlooking Lake Wanaka with a small pond below the porch. I got up before sunrise to capture the famous Wanaka Tree. The tree started its life over 80 years ago as a willow branch used as a fence post in Lake Wanaka to keep livestock from wandering. Over time, it took root and grew into the solitary tree seen today. In 2014, a photograph of the tree by Dennis Radermacher won the New Zealand Geographic photo of the year award. The image, taken on a misty day, captured the tree’s unique appearance and set it on the path to fame as #ThatWanakaTree spread rapidly on social media.

Mou Waho is an “island in a lake, on an island in a lake, on an island in the ocean.” It contains Arethusa Pool, a small lake near its peak that itself has a tiny island, creating a rare recursive landform. It was our destination this morning via speedboat (the 25 minute ride each way was an experience in and of itself). The island is predator-free and serves as a sanctuary for native wildlife, including the endangered Buff Weka, pictured below.

In the afternoon, we visited a Lavender Farm, which was as picturesque as it was fragrant. The working farm was also home to a couple of alpaca who were kind enough to pose for me.

In news from the US, Nico was featured in a segment on WBZ News (CBS affiliate). The story can be found at https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/nico-calabria-us-new-england-amputee-soccer-team/