When I was in high school I had to write a report about Burma and have ever since wondered what it would be like to visit. Now called Myanmar, I flew into Mandalay for the beginning of five day visit this morning. I spent the entire day on foot and there was much to photograph with much of my attention captured by the fascinating people of the city.

I paused for a 30 minutes to watch as a human “bucket brigade” passed what looked like large deep metal serving plates filled with concrete from the mixer to the new foundation being “poured” below. It appeared to be back breaking work made even worse by the 100 degree plus temperatures.

I covered more than 12 miles in all making the trek from my hotel near the train station to Mandalay Hill and back taking in all the sights along the way.

The Royal Palace is a walled city built in 1861 by King Mindon, to fulfil a prophecy.  Access to the interior is only available at the East gate and photography is strictly limited to the actual palace which is a distant 2/3 of a mile from the gate.

Mandalay Hill is a 754 foot high hill overlooking the city. Along the path taken to reach the top are several monasteries, temples and pagodas.

Wat Rong Khun, also known to foreigners as the White Temple, is a contemporary, unconventional, privately owned, art exhibit in the style of a Buddhist temple in Chiang Rai Province, a three hour drive from Chiang Mai. It is owned by Chalermchai Kositpipat, a local artist, who designed, constructed, and opened it to visitors in 1997. Kositpipat considers the temple to be an offering to Lord Buddha and believes the project will give him immortal life.

The gold colored building below is not to be confused with a temple. It contains the restrooms for the compound.  It is said to be the most beautiful restroom building  in the world.

It is remarkable that every element of design and art has been conceived of by one man. While I found much to admire, I will admit to feeling that some of his work was simply over the top for my tastes especially in the context of an essentially religious site.

Most people know of the Karen people from television documentaries, magazines and encyclopedias as the “long-neck” or “giraffe” tribe. But the women who wear these brass rings on their neck belong to a sub-group of the Karen known as the Padaung. The weight of the rings pushes down the collar bone, as well as the upper ribs, to such an angle that the collar bone actually appears to be a part of the neck. There are many different accounts of why the Padaung practice this bizarre custom but the most common explanation — that an extra-long neck is considered a sign of great beauty and wealth and that it will attract a better husband.

Whatever the origin of the custom, one of the more common reasons it continues today, particularly in Thailand, is tourism. Some have suggested that these women are being exploited by tour operators. Other would argue that the entrance fees to these “villages” provides income that help sustain a cultural heritage.  Having now visited myself, I would say this is not a black or white issue but believe the truth lies closer to the former premise.

Created by Thailand national artist Thawan Duchanee, the grounds of the Baan dam Museum (AKA “The Black Temple”) include nearly 40 small black houses made of wood, glass, concrete, bricks, or terracotta in various unique styles and design scattered around the temple area. The cluster of houses accommodates Thawan’s collections of paintings, sculptures, animal bones, skins, horns, and silver and gold items from around the world. Several of the houses exhibit Balinese and Burmese architecture and art dating back to the Ayutthaya Period. The artist uses bones as a source of inspiration to paint. It is very interesting photographically but not a place for animal lovers.

I am ashamed to say that while in Nepal I rode an elephant while on safari (to track and safely photograph rhinoceros).  I did not know then what it took to train an elephant to do such work.  I know now and will never ride an elephant again and would ask the same of anyone reading this blog. Today I visited an elephant sanctuary located in the mountains where these noble and extremely bright creatures live without shackles and only participate in natural behaviors (eating, rolling in the mud, bathing). Elephants eat a lot of food and they particularly like bananas. After breakfast which also includes a more voluminous amount of vegetation the elephants pause for a long drink at the river before indulging in a mud bath. Once they are fully caked in mud it is back to the river for a bath.  They particularly liked using the small waterfall there as a shower.  The family of five that I visited included three generations (baby, mother, grandmother) and all are happy to befriend anyone with a supply of bananas.

After returning from the mountains I enjoyed a simple dinner before doing a little night photography of the temples. A most satisfying day from start to finish.

My train arrived in Chiang Mai just before noon.  Compelled to get something of a workout, I walked from the train station to my hotel some 5 miles away with my fully loaded backpack in the 100 degree heat. I quickly came to appreciate that Thailand’s northern capital is an escape from the whirlwind pace of its southern rival, a place to relax after the chaos of Bangkok.  After settling into my hotel. I ventured out for a tour of the Old City which contains no less than 36 temples. Quite certainly my favorite was Wat Chedi Luang. It was originally built in 1411 reaching a height of over 278 feet before it was partially destroyed by an earthquake in 1545. It now stands at 196 feet.

Later I visited Wat Phrasing, Wat Mengrai and the Three Kings Monument. I wrapped up the day with a stroll, sans cameras, to and through the Night Bazzar where I purchased a pair of sandals to be used on my adventures tomorrow.

Jeanine returned to the US today per our original plan. I have decided to extend my travels in Asia for another two weeks.  Given the time and expense to get here, the completed day-for-night recalibration of my body clock, and the fact that I have no pressing need to return, it was an easy decision.  I spent the better part of the day at my hotel applying for online visas to Myanmar and India and making new travel bookings. I then headed into Bangkok where I purchased additional memory cards for my camera before catching the overnight train to Chiang Mai.  For whatever reason, I had pictured this train as being a bit more glamorous than it actually was.  The beds were formed by folding down the regular day seats and were significantly less than comfortable.  The toilet left me convinced never to stroll along the train tracks of Thailand. A slow and tedious ride, it was none the less an exciting way to start the second half of my adventure.

Most tourists who visit Phuket are here to enjoy Patong Beach and the infamous party scene which surrounds it.  Not so much our thing but worth a quick visit before heading back to Bangkok this afternoon.

 

Formed by the same geological processes as Halong Bay, Pfang Gna Bay is similar in appearance but much warmer than its northern cousin. We joined a speedboat tour for the day and made stops on several islands. Many of the eerily eroded karsts are populated by monkeys which are all too happy to supplement their normal diets with treats from passing tourists.

The most famous attraction in the National Park is the islet of Khao Phing Kan, now more commonly known as “James Bond Island.”  The island and adjacent beach were featured is scenes from the Man with the Golden Gun and Tomorrow Never Dies.

Our next stop was for lunch at the Muslim fishing village on the island of Koh Panyee. The houses and impressive mosque are built on stilts. A floating soccer pitch can also be found here. Inspired by the 1986 FIFA World Cup, children built the pitch from old scraps of wood and fishing rafts. The genesis for a successful soccer program on the island, a newer floating field has since been constructed. I was left to wondering how often the ball had to be retrieved from the bay during the course of play.

Next we did a bit of kayaking. More accurately, we were passengers on a two person kayak being propelled by a guide. We explored several nooks, crannies and sea tunnels in an area rich with these features. The tide was just low enough to allow us passage through the small opening pictured in the second photo below. All three of us had to recline fully in order to clear the barnacle encrusted passageway.

We concluded our tour on Naka Island which features a beautiful white sand beach and safety net enclosed area for swimming. The jellyfish and sharks pose real threats to swimmers.

 

Returning to Bangkok this morning we bid farewell to Kyle at the airport before continuing on another flight to Phuket, located in southern Thailand.  The old quarter is quite charming both during the day and at night when much of it is beautifully illuminated.

Morning light on Halong Bay was sublime.  The ever present fog and mist had briefly dissipated. Nothing but beauty to be found in every direction.

Our first stop of the morning was on an island which from exterior appearances looked like every other one in the bay. After climbing up its side, however,  we passed through a small opening which revealed a massive cave. It seemed to consume the entire interior of the karst. I didn’t have a flash but made use of my flashlight to illuminate the fascinating features of this underground world.

After exploring the cave, we enjoyed a brief walk on the island’s small beach while the tender from our ship was sent to retrieve us.

Small boats, occupied primarily with fishing, were to be found around every karst. Occasionally, we spotted cigarette smugglers bound for China seeking to avoid import taxes.  Little doubt that other contraband also passes this way.

As the captain navigated back to port we concluded our cruise with another wonderful lunch during which Kyle made this nice portrait of his parents. The three-hour drive back to Hanoi was mostly stressful as our maniacal driver seemed intent on running anyone who failed to move aside at the sound of his horn off the road.  Amazingly no one was killed and I managed to get a photo from the speeding vehicle of a farmer planting rice, a scene I associate with Vietnam and one I had hoped to capture while here.

We arrived in the Hoan Kiem Lake District with ample time to tour the area with Kyle who had yet to see any parts of Hanoi.  He proved to be a popular attraction with the young ladies who were keen on having their picture taken with him. Kyle did not seem to mind the attention. After dinner we went searching for dessert. Jeanine, using her exotic food locating super powers, sniffed out a fantastic little ice cream parlor where we suspended our otherwise healthy eating regime for a moment of bliss. The remainder of the evening was spent walking off the caloric damage while enjoying the illuminated night scene surrounding the lake.

 

This morning Kyle joined us in Hanoi for the weekend.  We had already booked an overnight small ship cruise of Halong Bay which has been on my list of must see places for many years now. Unfortunately, Kyle’s flight was delayed enough that we would miss the ship’s departure by the time we made the three hour trip by private car to the dock. Rather than miss this opportunity, we arranged for a speedboat to chase down the cruise ship and deposit us onboard.  The 20 minute high-speed ride was worth the price of admission alone. When we rendezvoused with the cruise ship we realized that our speedboat driver was also the captain. He had the crew prepare a second lunch service for our benefit and things could not have worked out more wonderfully.

At this time of year it is more likely than not that the bay will be shrouded in mist. Although it diminished the photographic possibilities, it added an aura of mystery as we glided between the thousands of limestone karsts and isles of every imaginable size and shape. We visited a pearl farm where we learned about the art of raising pearls and gained an appreciation as to why they can be so expensive.

We passed several floating villages and fisherman in all manner of boats.

Dinner was a splendid multi-course affair which we enjoyed with the other 7 passengers on board as we continued to slip through the bay.  A more intimate and relaxing cruise I cannot imagine.

Today Jeanine and I spent much of the day walking around Hanoi. Our first stop was the Temple of Literature where we found the most beautiful bonsai trees and wonderful gardens.

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Ho Chi Minh Museum were next on our tour. Once again the gardens were magnificent and we enjoyed watching the changing of the guard.

The Hanoi Botanical Gardens proved to be disappointing so we walked back to the Old Quarter where we could have spent days enjoying the the shops, people and food.

After lunch having already covered 10 miles on foot, we hired an electric tour car to take us to some of the remaining sights including the Quan Su Pagoda and Hao Lo Prison where John McCain spent part of his time in captivity.

Jeanine was sad that we did not get to see puppets while in Thailand so I surprised her with tickets to a water puppet show to cap off the evening. Water puppetry is a tradition that dates back as far as the 11th century when it originated in the villages of the Red River Delta area of northern Vietnam.  The puppets are made out of wood and then lacquered. Shows are performed in a waist-deep pool. A large bamboo rod supports the puppet under the water and is used by the puppeteers, who are hidden behind a screen, to control them.

We are staying at the Cinnamon Cathedral Hotel located across the street from the Saint Joseph Cathedral.  Our fifth floor suite offered an unobstructed view of the profile which I photographed at night (last image). The hotel manager was so impressed with the photo that he offered us a nice discount in exchange for the right to use the image in their marketing materials.

Tonle Sap Lake is the largest freshwater body in Southeast Asia. Over the course of a year its size varies from 1000 square miles to 6000 square miles.  It is fed by the Tonle Sap River for half the year which then reverses to drain it for the other half.  Villages are either built to float on the water or upon very tall stilts to accommodate the huge variation in water depth.

This morning Jeanine and I visited the lake and a small village adjacent to it.  We had lunch on a floating restaurant which featured a collection of live alligators,  presumably there to be harvested for the alligator based dishes on the menu. We arrived by long tail boat which are well suited to navigating the narrow and shallow rivers and lake provided the propellor does not get fouled.

Depending on the season, inhabitants of the lakeside village either dock their boats at their front door or need to travel several miles to reach the edge of the lake.  I enjoyed photographing the people of this community whether they be resting, playing, or at work.

Shrimp are spread out on tarps and dried in the 100 degree air.

With the rainy season still months away, boats can be found everywhere, temporarily abandoned along the once full rivers that feed the lake.

On the return trip to our hotel we drove past the scene of an accident. It is a wonder that we did not encounter more of these given the extremely free-for-all approach to driving that is common to this part of the world.  After collecting our luggage we made our way to the airport for our flight to Vietnam.

Today Jeanine and I spent most of the day apart. She signed up for a Cambodian cooking class and had a massage.  I hired a tuk-tuk and returned to the Angkor complex.  I started at the Sras Srang reservoir for sunrise and then over to Pre Rup for early morning light. King Rajendravarman constructed Pre Rup sometime in the 10th Century and it remains one of the most architecturally and stylistically noteworthy structures in Angkor. The name Pre Rup means “turning the body”, referring to Khmer cremation traditions. Although cremation may’ve taken place at Pre Rup, this modern name seems to negate the enormous historical significance of Pre Rup as one of the capitals of the Khmer Empire.

Preah Khan, which means “Sacred Sword”, was built towards the end of the 12th century as a part of King Jayavarman VII’s massive building campaign. Unlike many of Angkor’s larger monuments, which served primarily as worship centers or military headquarters, Preah Khan was also a Buddhist University. At its zenith, Preah Khan supported more than 1000 teachers and countless students.

After revisiting my favorite temples, I spent the remainder of the day  focused on people and wildlife.

 

Banteay  Srei ( “citadel of the women” or “citadel of beauty”), is an exquisite 10th-century Hindu temple consisting of low walls surrounding peaked structures of deep red sandstone.  It is said that the reliefs on this temple are so delicate that they could only have been carved by the hand of a woman. Completed in 967, Banteay Srei was the only major temple at Angkor not built for the king; instead it was constructed by one of king Rajendravarman’s counsellors, Yajnyavahara. The temple was primarily dedicated to Shiva.

Adjacent to the temple I noticed a new born water buffalo and her mother.

Banteay Kdei, meaning “A Citadel of Chambers”, also known as “Citadel of Monks’ cells”, is a Buddhist temple built in the mid 12th to early 13th centuries AD during the reign of Jayavarman VII, it is in the Bayon architectural style, similar in plan to Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, but less complex and smaller.

 After returning to Siem Reap late in the afternoon, I went out for a long walk to photograph some of the local people, a nice break from shooting ancient monuments.

After dinner we attended an acrobatic circus performance put on by the Phare Performing Social Enterprise which seeks to provide gainful employment to Cambodian youth from difficult social and economic backgrounds and financially sustain a school dedicated to the rebirth of Cambodian modern art.  I was selected to perform on stage as the base of a human pyramid. Let’s just say I was the source of great amusement for the rest of the audience.