Maya is generally an enthusiastic kid but today she could hardly contain her excitement as she modeled her new ballet point shoes for me. Jeanine was equally happy about the mother-daughter experience of fitting and buying the shoes together. A future entry will no doubt document Maya’s first ballet recital on point. Her interest in dance and ballet continues to grow and it appears she will be the Calabria from this family who will carry on the tradition of dancing established by my parents.
My red-eye from Lima arrived in Houston early this morning. I was able to clear customs quickly allowing me just enough time to catch a much earlier direct flight to Boston, shaving 8 hours off my planned return travel time. The flight took me over the Mississippi River which is experiencing terrible flooding. The photo quality is not good but if you click to enlarge you should be able to see many farms and homes that have been surrounded or inundated by water.
For the first time on this vacation I sleep in until 7AM and enjoy a proper breakfast before setting out on a walking tour of Cusco.
After a few hours of walking I happen upon the main area where the locals shop, a tented open air market with rows and rows of tiny stalls organized by the type of merchandise for sale. I decided to buy alpaca wool sweaters and hats for the entire family. At half the price asked by the street vendors with no haggling over price I was happy to pay $7 per sweater and $1.50 per hat. Had my backpack not reached capacity I would have purchased twice the amount. With my gifts in hand I returned to the hostel, packed for my return and left for my flight from Cusco to Lima which arrived at about 2PM. With more than 9 hours until my departure for the US I left my main bag in a locker and hired a taxi to drive me around for a tour of the city. We visited the Miraflores and Barranco districts before heading downtown to the historic center where I left the taxi and completed the remainder of my tour on foot.
In order to catch the sunrise and beat the crowds I woke up at 4AM this morning to begin the climb from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu. Using a headlamp to illuminate the path, I made a one hour vertical ascent to the main entrance gate. This is an arduous trek with 20 pounds of camera gear, water, and food for the day in my day pack. Most early risers are interested in getting one of the limited number of stamps permitting access to climb Huayana Picchu (the tall peak rising behind the ruins). Although I obtained a stamp, my sole focus was on photography and I immediately entereded the grounds and made a final ascent to the the guard house. I was the first to arrive and immediately awestruck by the magnificence of the birds-eye view of the citadel. I quickly began to photograph the ruins before they were over run with visitors.
Even small adjustments in positioning expose new perspectives on the ruins and I spent several hours photographing the site. Over the coming weeks, I will process all my images and select a few favorites for enlargement. Included here are some of my initial picks.
When my appetite for photography was sated, I relaxed and started a leisurely exploration of the ruins. Rather than move between points of interest at the pace of the tour guides, I dwell in each location and imagine what it must have been like to actually live in this place of amazing beauty and architectural sophistication. Food is not permitted on the grounds but I have smuggled in a small lunch which I enjoy in the privacy of a tiny nook which overlooks the majesty of the Andes careful to leave behind no trash. The true purpose of Machu Picchu is still a matter of scholarly debate. What is clear, is that this place was created by a people filled with a deep spiritual connection to the natural world, an appreciation for beauty, and engineering skills far ahead of their time. This place is indeed one of the wonders of the world.
I descended Machu Picchu by bus, collected my main back pack at the hostel and then proceeded to the train station. The rail journey to Ollantaytambo offered spectacular views at every turn not to mention a fashion show by the crew (modelling Peruvian knitted wear). Next I shared a taxi with a very friendly couple from Uruguay for the final two hours of the return to Cusco. After settling into my hostel and showering I headed out for a light dinner followed by a one hour ($12) massage leaving me totally relaxed. I slept like a baby.
Our trekking group (pictured above later in the day) is off to another 5 AM start to what will be a predominantly downhill trekking day along the Rio Santa Teresa. Temperatures continue to increase as we descend into the jungle, and the flora we encounter today includes some extremely beautiful varieties. I find myself stopping continuously to capture images of flowers and having to scamper to keep pace with my comrades.
Included here is a small sampling of the flowers that I encountered today.
In addition to my fellow trekkers, Roberto and Taylor have been my constant companions on the trail, responsible for managing the horse that carries my gear. Although he speaks no English and I little Spanish, we were able to communicate fairly well, and he came to anticipate when I would be most likely to reach for my tripod and when I was likely to make a lens change. He also made some good suggestions for photographs, and I did my best to explain to him what I was doing. I gave him a very handsome tip at the end of the trail and also shared my water with him throughout each day.
Because of my limited time in the country, I must leave the group a day early and take the train from Hidroelectica to Aquas Calientes, where I have a hostel reserved for the night. We coordinated a plan to share contact information, and I truly hope we will stay in touch, or better yet, see each other again. The train ride was an adventure in itself. Five minutes out of the station, it stopped and started going backwards. I assumed we had forgotten something at the station. The train was navigating a set of switchbacks needed to climb the steep grades.
As the train approached Aquas Calientes, there was a great view of a mountain adjacent to the one upon which Machu Picchu sits, giving some perspective as to why the Spanish never discovered the Incan Citadel during their years of occupation. Compared to other mountain ranges I am familiar with, the Andes have the most sheer vertical edges of any. After arriving in town, I stowed my gear at the hostel, grabbed a quick bite, and then set out for a little nighttime photography before enjoying my first hot shower in days and a really good night’s sleep.
The group is awake and packed by 5:30AM (some with more prodding than others) for what will be our toughest climbing day. We will spend just over ten hours on the trail and cover 15 miles crossing the Salkantay Pass at 15,100 feet.
Fatigue from traversing the endless switchbacks gives way to exuberance as we reach the rock strewn pass with phenomenal views in all directions.
Our guide, Willie, takes pictures of the group as we briefly rest at the highest elevation on our trek.
Now the toughest part of the trek begins for me, the descent. I find going down far more difficult because of the impact on my knees, and I break out my trekking poles to help absorb some of the strain. I have managed to keep pace with the youngsters as we climb, but will be last into camp every day that we descend. Around 1PM, we reach Huayracmachay, where we pause for lunch and rest.
Every few hours along the trail, one can find a tiny little shack where the local farmers add to their income by selling bottled water, sodas, and snacks. They are welcome waypoints, and the group is always happy to take a break from the climbing.
Following the group all day is Taylor, the cute little dog owned by the tender of the horse carrying my photo gear. (S)he is very careful not to get underfoot and has been a great traveling companion who can be counted on to pick the easiest path through mud and water. We arrive at our camp in Chaullay with the last light of the day and enjoy a well-earned dinner by candlelight. Each tent holds two people, but as the eleventh member of the group and the one with the most stuff (read camera gear), I am afforded single occupancy.
At 4:45AM I am shuttled from my hostel to the center of town where a small bus (van) is waiting to take my trekking group to the starting point of our climb in the town of Mollepata. With each sharp right or left hand turn (of which there are many) the front tires rub on their fender wells under the weight of 12 passengers and all their gear (strapped to the roof). I was sure one of the tires would burst just as we rounded a cliff edged curve and found it hard to relax during the two hour drive. To my surprise, we arrive without incident. We sat down for breakfast during which I meet the other members of our trekking group. There is one unmarried couple in transition from Dublin to Barcelona who have been travelling through India and New Zealand, two Israeli soldiers who have just completed their military service and have been travelling through South America for months, 2 Spanish speaking women travelling together (did not get to know them too well because of the language barrier), a woman from Atlanta and one from California travelling alone through South America for months and doing charity work, a man from Manchester, England fresh off a trek in Nepal and a man from North Dakota who had just completed 4 years living in China. Of the ten, none are married, have children, or a job and the average age is less than half of mine. Each one to be admired for their journeys and acts of service. Despite sticking out like a sore thumb the group embraced me from the first minute and this would become my family for the next four days.
We climb for 7-8 hours today, covering a distance of about 11 miles. I have hired a horse to carry my photo gear (the best money I have ever spent) and can access my tripod, lenses, and gear as needed. As we climb progressively higher, the lush vegetation and fields give way to a more rocky terrain, and the temperature drops noticeably with each hour of ascent. Soon we can see the glaciers which cling to the mountain tops, creating for me a nice motivational target for the ongoing ascent.
We break for lunch at about 1 PM, enjoying tea, soup, and chicken with rice. Despite my diet, I eat everything in sight to help sustain my energy. Having come from sea level just 2 days earlier, I am being very careful to control my climbing pace. So far, no problem keeping pace with the youngsters as we spend the afternoon climbing to our campsite at Soray Pampa (8,600 feet). Our campsite has a shelter constructed of tarps over a wood pole frame, which provides shelter from wind and rain for both our tents and our dining area. With the sun rapidly setting, we get an up-close view of the Salkantay glacier, which we will climb past tomorrow.
Sleep comes quickly for me in the sub-zero temperatures, but with the lack of adequate padding, I found myself awake just a few hours later and had to settle for closed-eye resting in place of more sleep.
After a nice breakfast and brisk walk through a park adjacent to my hotel, I head back to the airport for a flight to Cusco. As my plane taxis away from the gate I notice a massive plume of smoke from a fire or explosion. I was never able to learn the cause but was grateful that my plane was already off the gate when it happened.
On arrival in Cusco my first priority was to connect with a trekking company. Jeanine made me promise that I would not climb alone and I quickly made arrangements for a 4 day, 3 night trek over the Salkantay Pass leaving very early the next morning. Next I hired a driver and guide to take me on a tour of the Sacred Valley for the remainder of the day. Before heading off I snapped a couple of pictures in Cusco.
The ruins at Chinchero are our first stop. The superb stonework of the terraced walls and mountainside food repositories reveal the craftsmanship and ingenuity of the Incan people.
We then move on to Ollantaytambo. During the Inca Empire, it was the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti who conquered the region, built the town and a ceremonial center. At the time of the Spanish conquest of Peru it served as a stronghold for Manco Inca Yupanqui, leader of the Inca resistance.
As night time arrives we make the long drive back to Cusco where I do a little more photography before finding a nice restaurant for dinner. In the process of making the last photo here (shot from inside the restaurant) of the Plaza de Armas, I met a gentleman from Lyon, France who was also dining alone. During the ensuing conversation we discovered we shared a great deal in common and we parted by sharing invitations to visit each others homes. I arrived at my hostel by 8PM just in time to meet a representative from the trekking company to receive an orientation for the climbing to begin tomorrow.
My journey to Peru begins at 4AM this morning. I drive myself to the airport where I take a flight to Chicago, then Houston, and finally on to Lima, arriving at 10:30PM. I reach my hotel in the San Isidro district by midnight and am soon fast asleep. No opportunity for photos today.
Last week I happened upon a picture of Machu Picchu and decided it would be the destination for my next solo trekking adventure. After some quick research I determined that this week would be a perfect time to make the journey as the rainy season is mostly over and winter and the main tourist season has not yet arrived. My frequent flyer miles got me as far as Lima and I will complete the journey using a domestic air carrier, a train, a bus, and three days worth of trekking over the 15,000 foot Salkantay Pass to reach this mystical lost Incan city. I am taking a 50L pack for the trekking as well as a 25L day pack and my camera which weigh in at just over 40 pounds which is a comfortable load for me these days. I will return on May 10th and will not post again until then at which time I hope to have returned with my own Peruvian treasure trove of images. Jeanine has made me promise I will not climb alone and I will make arrangements to join up with a trekking group when I arrive in Cusco.
This morning I carpooled with teammates to Medway where we secured first place standing in our over 50 soccer league with a narrow win. With five minutes left in the match I scored the only goal of the contest. It was neither pretty nor well struck but did manage to squirm past the keeper for the win. Later in the afternoon I went for a 90 minute walk and was fortunate to capture this image in which my subject was not busy grazing as has been the case in most of my past attempts to photograph horses.
My efforts to lose some weight are really starting to pay off. I am more than half way to my goal of 20 pounds. Normally Jeanine is the one who has to coax me into taking a walk with her. Today the roles were reversed as I was looking to get in an hour of exercise and she was spent from studying for her upcoming finals. Concord is full of secret paths through the woods and Jeanine knows them all. The weather was perfect and all the trees are beginning to bloom. Just a lovely evening for a stroll.
Jeanine and Maya enjoyed watching the royal wedding of Kate and William this morning. They decided to dress for the occasion and turned the event into a party. I will admit to watching as well. All I can say is that the English really know how to do a royal affair and that their men know nothing of how to kiss a woman.
In an effort to lose 20 pounds I have been exercising for at least an hour a day for the past two weeks. Today on an extended walk near our home I encountered a rafter of wild turkeys including this strutting male. With some patience I was able to approach to within 10 feet for this shot. Low light levels translated to a slow shutter speed and hence it is not quite as sharp as I would have liked.